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Move up the fairly steep and sustained slab past three bolts to the roof (5.10c). The first bolt is a bit on the high side in my opinion. From here, you have two options. (1) the natural line ascends easier ground on the right side of the flake past a couple more bolts (the same ones you just clipped topping out Confession); or (2) move slightly left and surmount the roof at a bolt. I've never been able to pull the roof variation, but the the move is shown as 11c in the latest Gillett guide. Have fun.
This is the next route to the right of Smack the Cold Booty (or left of Confession), and basically climbs straight up to the flake that marks the right terminus of the big roof.
5 or 6 QDs plus something for the anchor.
Mike Amato at the third bolt. The climbing is thi...
|By Neal Brigner|
Nov 6, 2001
This is another good route for the area, thin 10c moves down low and much easier after the 3rd bolt. Haven't tried the roof variation, looks cool though. It seems it could use [its] own anchor as you encounter a bit of rope drag at the top.
|By Charles Vernon|
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 7, 2002
I'd give this route 2 solid stars for the .10c section down low. Sustained thin climbing on excellent rock.
May 5, 2002
I'd recommend pants if you're prone to desperation knee mantling. I never seem to get off this one without some sort of bloodshed.
Jul 23, 2009
The last bolt hanger has been removed by someone so either take a hand size cam, a stopper to "sling" the bolt stud, or run it out over easy rock to the anchors.