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Lower Peanuts
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Cornered, straight up variation 
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No Visible Means of Support 
Nova 
Off The Cuff 
Peanuts 
Pretender, The 
Right Escape 
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Scorpions 
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Sickle 
Star Track 
Strolling 
Tracer 
Trouble And Strife 
West Crack (aka Star Wars) 
Whiskey Gala 
Wired 
X-Wing 
Young, Blonde, and Easy 
Your Basic Lieback 

Sickle 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: J. Stuberg, solo, 1981
Season: Faces West/Northwest. Afternoon sun.
Page Views: 79
Submitted By: Tony B on May 27, 2012
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

There is nothing really wrong with this climb but not much to recommend it either. The FA was done solo, which makes sense considering it is more like an easy boulder problem than an actual route. Just a few feet right of Fickle Finger of Eight, a thin crack leads up under a right-leaning, arching "crack" that becomes a horizontal slot. It arches right a few feet then ascends to a ledge. The horizontal section is the awkward crux and has a few loose bits of rock in that that can be easily enough avoided.


Location 

This route starts a meter right of Fickle Finger and finishes a few meters right, at the same ledge.


Protection 

A few small pieces and a large cam for the horizontal slot. Above the slot, one of several things could be placed - so a standard light rack has you covered.



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By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
Aug 8, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

Easily protected the whole way, especially if you bring a #4 Camalot or similar. Fun but short, crux at bottom.