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One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 
Over The Rainbow T,S 
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South Arete T 
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Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 
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Vector T 
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Sickle 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bob Woodsworth, Ashlyn Armour Brown 1962
Page Views: 1,075
Submitted By: Dan Petty on Jul 30, 2011  with updates from katelynn

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Description 

p1 (5.7) - Climb the first pitch of Diedre to the bolted anchor (slab and jugs).

p2 (5.7) - From the anchor move up and right towards the large tree into a slab corner that arches to the right (slab and irregular finger crack) and build a gear belay near the tree growing out of the crack.

p3 (5.9) - Pull over the small roof around a small tree growing in the crack and move up and right before traversing back left along a crack towards a large boulder on the ledge above. DO NOT go as far as the bolt on over the rainbow. As the crack disappears tricky slab moves lead up to the ledge (crux) for a tree belay.

p4-5 (5.7) - Walk as far left and up on the ledge as possible and climb the right-facing corner in two pitches (gear anchor) to a horizontal crack under a small roof and traverse to the right.

Location 

Start at Diedre and move right at first pitch anchors, staying left of the bolted slab line, Over the Rainbow.

Protection 

Nuts and cams to 2".


Comments on Sickle Add Comment
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By Ashort
From: Tacoma, WA
May 5, 2015

The arching corner is fun, but that's about it. A lot of dirty climbing for one good pitch.
By M Bageant
From: Cambridge, MA
Aug 12, 2016

After P3 (the short 5.9 pitch), move left on the ledge and clamber up the dirt clods and loose rocks (careful!). Don't build an anchor on one of the trees (I did)---keep going up through the bushes to where the dihedral begins, and there is a bolted anchor around eye level (not equipped for rap).

From the bolted anchor to the finish ledge is two full 60m pitches. If you build an anchor too low (on the trees instead of the bolts) and are using a 60m rope, you may have to do a third mini pitch or simul a bit to get up to the ledge.

Also, agreed that it's dirty, but the 5.7 arch pitch is pretty cool.
By Serge Smirnov
Aug 28, 2016

No need to wait in line on Diedre - it is fairly easy to move over to Sickle after P1 of Over The Rainbow.
By katelynn
3 days ago

Pitch 2 & 3 can be linked with 70m, however this leads to significant rope drag on the crux moves.

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