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YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bob Woodsworth, Ashlyn Armour Brown 1962
Page Views: 1,028
Submitted By: Dan Petty on Jul 30, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Climb the first pitch of Diedre to the bolted anchor (5.6 slab and jugs). From the anchor move up and right into a slab corner that arches to the right(5.7 slab and irregular finger crack). Pull over the small roof around a small tree growing in the crack and move up on the face heading toward the right side of a large vegetated ledge and belay from a tree (5.9 slab; possible to clip a bolt from Over the Rainbow). Walk up and left on the ledge until you reach the large corner. Head up the slightly dirty corner through a tree/bush (5.7 slab and loose fingers/tight hands). Continue up the corner to a horizontal crack under a small roof and traverse to the right. Continue moving up to the right until you reach Broadway Ledge(5.6 slab with finger crack).


Start at Diedre and move right at first pitch anchors, staying left of the bolted slab line, Over the Rainbow.


Nuts and cams to 2".

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By Ashort
From: Tacoma, WA
May 5, 2015

The arching corner is fun, but that's about it. A lot of dirty climbing for one good pitch.
By M Bageant
From: Cambridge, MA
Aug 12, 2016

After P3 (the short 5.9 pitch), move left on the ledge and clamber up the dirt clods and loose rocks (careful!). Don't build an anchor on one of the trees (I did)---keep going up through the bushes to where the dihedral begins, and there is a bolted anchor around eye level (not equipped for rap).

From the bolted anchor to the finish ledge is two full 60m pitches. If you build an anchor too low (on the trees instead of the bolts) and are using a 60m rope, you may have to do a third mini pitch or simul a bit to get up to the ledge.

Also, agreed that it's dirty, but the 5.7 arch pitch is pretty cool.

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