Sick For Sleeping
||Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Chris Beh, Paul Glover, Matt Samet, Owen Silver|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring, Summer, Fall|
|Page Views: ||666|
|Submitted By: ||Chris Beh on Apr 9, 2013|
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This route provides a nice step up in difficulty as a warm-up from the adjacent 11a, Hippopotamus
. The crux is at the bottom of the steep, upper section after the easy approach bit, so be ready to crank immediately! Stage your belay on the ground where the Undertow
approach ledge begins.
Scramble up the approach ledge and before the ledge traverses left, while you are still to the right of the big tree look up for the first bolt just above. It's only 5.5 at the bulge, but at least you have a bolt between you and your belayer 30 feet below. Move up 5.0- climbing to the steep stuff above and the second bolt (2nd bolt is a long, fat one in case you notice it is the only thing between you and a 50 foot ground fall...easy to clip). The crux of the route comes just after you clip the third bolt with a stout 11c move. Then pumpy but slightly easier climbing past two more bolts leads to a rest below the final bulge. It is super fun, 11a crimping up the mini-tufa final bulge.
This is currently the right most route, uphill on the crag. Stage on the ground by the Undertow
Seven bolts plus chain anchors.
Per Mark E Dixon
: 7 bolts plus anchors.
Apr 27, 2013
Found a draw on this route today (4/27/13). PM me to describe it and I'll get it back to you.
By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 29, 2013
Best to downclimb and lower off the last bolt before the chains or rap off when cleaning the route. It's a little sharp, and there is some rope drag at the top.
By Mark E Dixon
From: Sprezzatura, Someday
Sep 15, 2015
Only 7 bolts plus something for the anchors.
A nice warm-up, worth doing.
Still a few loose holds, especially at the horizontal just before the crux, but they are avoidable.
Cleaning by lowering off the anchors didn't seem excessively abrasive to me. Maybe the anchors have been moved?