On Sobo, start as for Cruising For Bulgar. About 45' up the route, below a small roof, place a few #4 Friends and move right under the roof by a seam, pulling an undercling on the right under the roof. Pull up onto the face/arete above on a good jug and climb the blunt arete for as long as you can stomach, passing a potential 1.5" TCU or small tricam placement after a few meters, just before the angle of the rock relaxes to be more slabby. Continue up on shallow slopers and nubs before moving back left to join Cruising For Bulgar at the top.
At the time of the first ascent the route felt like 5.10d, but this included some effort cleaning it along the way. This route will perhaps get easier if it gets traffic and more holds are cleaned, and is a 2-star route as it is.
A fall from high on the face could result in serious injury, although the crux is not far from the cams placed before the small roof and is thus pretty safe, provided you don't break a hold. You can move left to protect as for Cruising for Bulger and come back out onto the face if desired.
The route name came from Mark Speiker, who upon following the line and snapping off a few flakes while climbing, producing some falls, declared that the line was 'Sick And Wrong.' And that stuck.
I've regretted not naming this route 'Bruising and Vulgar' after Mark's language, and in keeping with the theme of playing off of existing route names. Unfortunately that name occurred to me after Rossiter's new book was already in print. Too bad.
A few pieces up to a #4 Friend. Since a #4 will be the last piece prior to a long runout, two pieces at about this size might be desired.
|By Darin Lang|
Apr 2, 2002
Inadvertent creativity. A shame indeed.