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Sicilian 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Scott Carson
Page Views: 2,792
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Mar 12, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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Erin Keeley on the Sicilian

Description 

This route is located on the left aspect of the Scarface wall about 50 feet to the right of the splitter Scarface. It is recognized as a chalked up series of changing corners with a #0.5 Camalot crack inside. It is a relatively short climb with anchors about 50 to 60 feet high. As is the case with many Indian Creek corners, Sicilian may be jammed or laybacked. I used a combination of these 2 techniques. The crux comes at mid-height where one must negotiate an obvious change in the corner's direction using difficult finger-stacking jams. Once through this section, "cruise" to the finish on thin hands jams. An exciting an strenuous route! It's 2-star rating is only due to the length. The book rated it 5.11, but I feel that 5.11+ is more appropriate. Have fun!

Protection 

This route takes #0.5 Camalots very well. Bring 5 pieces in that size range. A couple #0.75 Camalots may also go in. TCUs are helpful for the start and a #1 Camalot or 2.5 Friend will protect the finishing thin-hands crack. There is a good double-bolt anchor at the finish.


Photos of Sicilian Slideshow Add Photo
DK leading. This was a slippery bastard.
DK leading. This was a slippery bastard.
Brian H finishing up for the afternoon
Brian H finishing up for the afternoon
Louis styling the bottom big fingers lieback...
Louis styling the bottom big fingers lieback...
The "Sicilian" ringlock style
The "Sicilian" ringlock style
Eric Z past the chaning corners making easy work of the Sicilian.
Eric Z past the chaning corners making easy work o...
DK on the Sicilian
DK on the Sicilian
Conor, just beginning to feel the pain of this finger crack. <br /><a href='http://www.GoodLifePhotography.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >goodlifephotography.com</a> <br /><a href='http://tylergates.blogspot.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >tylergates.blogspot.com</a> <br />ŠTyler Gates
Conor, just beginning to feel the pain of this fin...

Comments on Sicilian Add Comment
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By Josh Beck
May 13, 2003

I agree - very burly. I'm not great on burly liebacks so this was very hard for me - about comparable to Fingers In A Lightsocket, 11+ is fair.
By Max Schon
Nov 11, 2003

I've seen this route and Scarface graded the same in some guide books. I think that only holds true if you have little sausage fingers, meaning the baggy fingers on Sicilian feel bomber to you and the short section of tight hands on Scarface feel hard to you. I have average fingers and think that if Sicilian is 5.11b, then Scarface is 5.10+.
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 23, 2006
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

I recommend #2 camalots over #1's for the top section. It was more like a combination of hands and thin hands for the top. I'd also agree with the 5.11+ grading. It felt harder than most 5.11s I've done in the Creek and felt only slightly easier than Coyne Crack, even with the cheating layback tactic.
By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 31, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

This route for me is considerably easier than Scarface (I have large fingers). It's basically perfect locks the whole way with good rests. If you have big hands don't hesitate to jump on it.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2008

Agree with 11+. The changing corners is tough to get the foot up on finger stacks. Harder than it looks, with plenty of off-fingers. Red metolius is bomber for the changing corners. Nice route.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Feb 2, 2009

FA- Scott Carson
By Zac Robinson
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 24, 2009

bheller wrote:
FA- Scott Carson


off fingers... of course! good line Scott!
By slim
Administrator
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

i find this one very difficult. bad size, changing corners, slippery, no contours or irregularities to dig your thumb tips into. i actually find this one considerably harder than most 11 to 11+ pitches out here. a lot of climbing in such a short pitch.