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 ADVANCED
The Amphitheater
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2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner T 
2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right T 
D.A.'s Route T 
Dialysis Bag T 
Direct North Face T,TR 
Direct to top of Second Pinnacle  T 
Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] T 
Diversion T 
East Bench Dihedral T 
Finger Crack (onT-Zero) T,TR 
First Pinnacle SE Face T 
Inset, The T 
Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) T,TR 
Juniper Crack (1st pinacle) T 
Left Variation (1st pinnacle) T 
Macropsychotic T 
McCrumm's Crack (1st Pinnacle) T 
North Face of the West Bench (2nd Pinnacle) T 
Northeast Chimney T 
Now and Zen T,TR 
Outside East Face T 
P.S. I'm Blonde T,S 
Pizza Pie Crack T 
Red Gully, The T,TR 
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane S,TR 
Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) TR 
Second Pinnacle East Face T 
Second Pinnacle South Face T 
Shortcut T 
Siberian North Face T,S 
Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] T 
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) TR 
South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) T,TR 
South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) T 
Southeast Arete (1st pinnacle) T 
Standard Inside East Face T 
T-Zero West Face T 
Tyrolean Traverse TR 
West Bench Dihedral T,TR 
West Face (of T-Zero) T,TR 

Siberian North Face 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Steve Ilg and Richard Rossiter, 1988
Page Views: 841
Submitted By: Kreighton Bieger on Aug 12, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Just west and south of the Red Wall on 'Ginseng Pillar' in the Amphitheater area. Gain an upward (to the left) sloping flake and heel hook your way across it (probably 5.8, cams or hexes), and pull onto a large ledge. From the ledge, stretch up to clip a bolt. Pull over a bulge crusted with green lichen (crux), do a move or two and arrive on top. A fairly short and somewhat contrived route, but a fun journey nonetheless. Bring something to sling a boulder with, or use the rope. Rap from Red Wall or downclimb the easy, obvious chimney.


    Protection 

    One QD, 3-4 mid size cams, #2-3 Camalot range.



    Comments on Siberian North Face Add Comment
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    By Joseph Proulx
    Oct 20, 2003
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    This is also a pleasant little toprope route, and easy to set up with a long sling and some large stoppers to back it up. While the route is basiaclly a one move wonder, you can have fun with some more difficult variations at the bottom. Tossing a toprope on this and the Red Wall makes a nice morning of moderately difficult climbing. The crux is a bit more tricky and awkward than the Red Wall, but it's less pumpy and sustained.

    -Joe

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Nov 5, 2004
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Fun, but a little loose. Good judgement for pro is required to lead this safely.

    I would describe the route as such:The Ginseng Pillar has 2 lines that have bolts, on the left is Siberian North Face, on the Right is Now and Zen. Both are overgraded as published and are more like 5.10a.

    Siberian North Face climbs a left-leaning flake from just right of the NW arete of the Ginsing Pillar, protecting behind the flke with mostly hand-to-fist-sized cams.A few of these will be horizontal or up-side-down. The climbing is mostly solid and fun, but watch for loose spots in the crack and protect accoringly. Once on top oof the flake, get good hold and make a move or two to reach and clip a single bolt & continue to the summit.

    By kevinnlong
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 10, 2008
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    There is a much more difficult (perhaps 5.11) variation which heads straight upward early from the diagonal flake. Highly recommended if this is done as a toprope.