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Siberia
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Bull with Gas 
Ben Scabbyface 
Broken Dreams 
Child Proof 
Cross-Roads Finish 
Dos Chi Chis 
Gandy 
George's Route (aka Binder) 
Glen's Crack 
Hollywood Rattlesnake 
Irish Toothache 
Jack 
Kublai Corner 
Leon Redbone 
Love Gas 
Randy 
Showers With Dad 
Toby 
Weo 
Yasmine Bleeth 
Unsorted Routes:

Siberia 


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Page Views: 14,114. Good page? (1 like)   
Administrators: C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: C Miller on Feb 27, 2006

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 


J. Smith starting P2 of Showers with Dad

Description 

Siberia is the attractive light and dark brown formation rising just north of the trail to Willow Hole with numerous one and two pitch routes on it's large south face. Yasmine Bleeth (5.9) and Dos Chi Chis (5.10a) are the most sought after routes here, but several other good routes are to be found as well. Some shorter routes are also found on the shady north face in the Siberian Corridor. Kublai Corner (5.8), Mongoloid (5.9) and Broken Dreams (5.11b) are the best of those.

The somewhat lengthy hike and minimal amount of information about the area ensures that you'll likely be the only party at this remote and wild-feeling crag. Please stick to established trails and help to maintain the special feel this area has.


Getting There 

Park in the large paved lot at Key's Corner and hike north following a well-defined trail. 1.25 miles after leaving the parking area the trail forks - left along the Boy Scout Trail, which leads to Indian Cove, and right to Willow Hole and deeper into the northern Wonderland. Take the right fork and continue hiking for another 0.75 miles and then leave the trail at a point marked by a trails sign. Follow, at times, an ill-defined trail to a point near the base of the formation and then boulder hop to the base. Plan on an hour for the approach.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Siberia:
Irish Toothache   5.7     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Cross-Roads Finish   5.7     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
George's Route (aka Binder)   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Yasmine Bleeth   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
A Bull with Gas   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Toby   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Love Gas   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Dos Chi Chis   5.10a     Sport, 2 pitches, 240 feet   
Browse More Classics in Siberia

Featured Route For Siberia
Stefan Harms starting up Pitch 1

Dos Chi Chis 5.10a  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Siberia
This high-quality two-pitch face climb is located on the right side of the south-facing, central buttress just right of Yasmine Bleeth (5.9). P1) Climb steep slab (5.9+) with intermittent patina past 7 bolts and one fixed pin to an intermediate belay, clip the belay and climb past two more bolts to a bolted belay on a spacious ledge. P2) Climb up and left from the left side of the ledge to a vague arete past 5 bolts via insecure smears (5.10a) to the top of the formation. Descend...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Siberia Slideshow Add Photo
Siberia (south face) - Yasmine Bleeth (5.9) and Dos Chi Chis (5.10a) climb the light-colored buttress just right of the high point.

BETA PHOTO: Siberia (south face) - Yasmine Bleeth (5.9) and Do...

Routes "Dos Chi Chi's and "yasmine Bleeth" lie below pointer

BETA PHOTO: Routes "Dos Chi Chi's and "yasmine Bleeth" lie bel...

Sibera from the top of Asian Fever Buttress. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Sibera from the top of Asian Fever Buttress.
Photo...


Siberia Slab from the southwest. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Siberia Slab from the southwest.
Photo by Blitzo.


Siberia Buttresses. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Siberia Buttresses.
Photo by Blitzo.


Siberia, telephoto from Land's End. A climber can be seen on "Dos Chi Chis" on the right. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Siberia, telephoto from Land's End. A climber can ...

Siberia in late afternoon light from the approach.

BETA PHOTO: Siberia in late afternoon light from the approach.

As viewed from the approach gully, this portion of Siberia (Western Siberia) is where many of the moderate (but run-out) trad lines are.

BETA PHOTO: As viewed from the approach gully, this portion of...

East Siberia

East Siberia


Comments on Siberia Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Y.
Apr 1, 2012

After taking the right fork, the next turn is no longer marked by a 'small cairn' - it is now a trail marker for "Climber's Trail" for Outer Mongolia.

Read "Hollywood Rattlesnake" Description carefully if coming to this area. Four great climbs right on top of each other. Any chance an admin could make a legit entry for "Showers with Dad"?

By Benjamin Chapman
From: CA
Feb 19, 2013

Approaching Siberia is a fine adventure, but the most direct route through the boulders from the sign isn't really the best. If you continue west and follow the wash around the high rock formation, right of the sign, there is a much easier route through the boulder field with fewer big drops and less climbing over boulders. I'm not trying to promote more social trails, but the one that is signed is arduous with anything bigger than a light pack.