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Shuteye Ridge

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50 5.7's Dome 
Big Sleep 
Chilkoot Lake 
Chiquito Dome 
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Dreamscape 
Eagles Nest  
Gray Eagle 
High Eagle 
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Midway Dome 
Moto Wall 
Red Eagle 
Shangri La 

Shuteye Ridge Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.35, -119.4276 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 30,646
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: mike arechiga on Mar 18, 2013  with updates from Keith Kowalczykowski
Forecast:
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John Vargas belayed by Eric McGee on an area class...

Description 

Vast amount of granite domes scattered thoughout the Southern Yosemite area.

Getting There 

From the city of Fresno, take state highway 41 to Oakhurst. Drive to Bass Lake to Beasore road 10 miles to 6s42 5.5 miles to 6s59 4 miles to the gate, past the gate need 4x4 to lookout 2 miles.From North Fork drive up Minarets road.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.9 miles from here

63 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',17],['3 Stars',27],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',6],['5.8',7],['5.9',10],['5.10',23],['5.11',11],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Shuteye Ridge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Shuteye Ridge:
Afternoon Nap   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 900'   Big Sleep
Wing Feather   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches   Gray Eagle : Great Depression
Heart of Gold   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   Gray Eagle : Alley Wall
Moonlight Madness   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 5 pitches, 900'   Big Sleep
Wham Bam Thank You Jam   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   Red Eagle
Croc Rock   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Crocodile Dome
Plate Tectonics   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   50 5.7's Dome : Alcove
El Grande   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   Chiquito Dome
Sweaty Betty   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   High Eagle : Main Wall - Lower Left
Welcome to the Dark Side   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 180'   High Eagle : Dark Side
Too Old To Be Bold   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   Chiquito Dome
We Free Again Boys   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 200'   High Eagle : Dark Side
Shangri La   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Shangri La
Odyssey   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Shangri La
Little Kala   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   High Eagle : Main Wall - Lower Left
Elixir   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   High Eagle : Main Wall
Gravity Pool   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   High Eagle : Shape Shifter Area
Bio Luminescent   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   High Eagle : Main Wall
Illuminati   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 230'   High Eagle : Main Wall
Kashmir   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Shangri La
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Shuteye Ridge

Featured Route For Shuteye Ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Arechiga on, El Grande. 5.10b. Chiquito Dome.

El Grande 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13  CA : Southern Sierra : ... : Chiquito Dome
El Grande Wall is the far left area on the dome, El Grande starts with a undercling to first bolt to a short crack climb over bulge to big ledge up to mid-way anchors climb up water streak to amazing pockets to top of dome, with one rope rap to mid-way anchors, super fun route!!!...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Shuteye Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kent Schmitz on the first pitch of, O-Maggie. 5.12...
Kent Schmitz on the first pitch of, O-Maggie. 5.12...
Rock Climbing Photo: Gerry Jesserun "pulls a tendon" on the b...
Gerry Jesserun "pulls a tendon" on the b...
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric Walden on Voodoo Child Voodoo Dome Shuteye Ri...
Eric Walden on Voodoo Child Voodoo Dome Shuteye Ri...
Rock Climbing Photo: Electric Eagle
Electric Eagle
Rock Climbing Photo: The Eagle Beaks from Crocodile Rock Wall
The Eagle Beaks from Crocodile Rock Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Globe Rock on Beasore road.
Globe Rock on Beasore road.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Arechiga on, House Of Cards,5.10b.
Mike Arechiga on, House Of Cards,5.10b.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Eagle Domes.
The Eagle Domes.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Jones Store on Beasore road.
The Jones Store on Beasore road.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Eagle Beaks
The Eagle Beaks
Rock Climbing Photo: Snow Flowers.
Snow Flowers.
Rock Climbing Photo: Map to Shuteye
BETA PHOTO: Map to Shuteye
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Arechiga on, You Snooze, You Lose.5.11b. Cat ...
Mike Arechiga on, You Snooze, You Lose.5.11b. Cat ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Map of Shuteye Ridge area.
BETA PHOTO: Map of Shuteye Ridge area.
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo Of Big Sleep Area.
Topo Of Big Sleep Area.
Rock Climbing Photo: Map to the Eagle Beaks area
Map to the Eagle Beaks area
Rock Climbing Photo: The Lookout on top of Shuteye.
The Lookout on top of Shuteye.
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo To Coronet
BETA PHOTO: Topo To Coronet
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of the 2nd pitch on Crossing the Milky Way 5...
Start of the 2nd pitch on Crossing the Milky Way 5...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike and Amy at the swimming holes at Rock Creek.
Mike and Amy at the swimming holes at Rock Creek.
Rock Climbing Photo: Shuteye Ridge.
Shuteye Ridge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on, atmosphere. 5.12c.
Climber on, atmosphere. 5.12c.
Rock Climbing Photo: The wonderful Knob Gobbler pitch on Crossing the M...
The wonderful Knob Gobbler pitch on Crossing the M...

Comments on Shuteye Ridge Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 8, 2015
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 26, 2013
wolverinepublishing.com/shutey...

A new guidebook is now available for Shuteye Ridge. Written by Grahm Doe and published by Wolverine.

This is a very pretty guidebook with 400+ pages in Full color.


Rock Climbing Photo: Shuteye Ridge Guidebook
Shuteye Ridge Guidebook
By Chris D
From: the couch
Mar 14, 2014
The guidebook has "over 800 routes" in this area. On Mountain Project (as of today)... Seven.

What gives?

Some nice pictures, but some solid "beyond the guidebook" beta from locals would be great.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Mar 14, 2014
^^^ @ Chris D

I think that there are some places that are better left as "choose your own adventure" areas. Luckily there are a bunch of places like this left in the Sierra (Cal Dome, Hwy 108, Southern Sierra, Shuteye). For these areas I am in some sense glad that there is minimal info because it keeps the place a bit more wild (i.e. there are plenty of destinations to choose from that are info'ed into submission...The Leap, Tuolumne, the Ditch, etc). The guidebook is nice, but I would submit that part of what makes Shuteye special is exploring, which I might add, you really had to do prior to the book being published. That said, the book is wonderful and I would recommend picking it up.

I would suggest that you just grab a copy of the book and go have a look for yourself!!
By Chris D
From: the couch
Jun 30, 2014
Got the guidebook, read it pretty much cover to cover. Fantastic. Made a plan, then headed up to check out the area around Big Sleep. A couple of notes for folks like us who have never been to Shuteye and are headed up there with a freshly minted copy of the new Grahm Doe guide in their sweaty little hands:

1. The guidebook shows hundreds of spectacular climbs, beautifully photographed, on spectacular granite. What we saw confirmed that the granite is tremendous and in places, highly featured, and the slab is clean, solid, and very grippy. Keep in mind that the beautiful route on page 27 might be an hour's drive or more from the beautiful route on page 30. Plan to spend some time at every area you go to, since it's going to be more work to get there than you think.

2. The roads in the area are engineered to confuse. Ha! Most roads have three names, which are used interchangeably. The dirt roads are generally poorly signed, and a maze of unnamed roads and motorcycle trails will add to your confusion. For the most part, Google maps will only provide marginal assistance, since for some reason, the roads on Google are not labelled with the "7S02" sort of USFS names that are used in the forest and on quad maps. Go figure. Be sure you know where you're going before you head out. Having someone in your party who really knows how to read a map is a bonus.

3. The approaches are not necessarily trails. Well, there appear to be trails, but you better find them and stay on them if you're not planning to bushwhack. We found some that were well-cairned, and even some wide swaths of well-gardened trail, but the trails were easy to lose and very lightly used. If you're planning to bushwhack (be prepared to even if you're expecting a trail), have a good sense of direction and a map and compass or GPS and know how to use them. Unless you're out on open slab, don't expect to be able to see more than a couple of hundred feet in the forest. You could pretty easily get lost out here. Allow a lot of time to find your way to and from the climbs.

What a place! Beautiful quiet forests. Spectacular rock. Even where the rock is covered with lichen, it's super positive to climb on. This place is so spread out and hard to navigate (relative to more popular areas) that I'd say there's little risk of over-use. We spent a three day weekend sampling the slab and featured face climbing near Big Sleep, and the swimming holes that pepper the stream above Rock Creek campground.

It was wonderful.
By nicolas blair
Feb 18, 2015
I have a 2003 outback, can my car make it back there?
By limpingcrab
From: Visalia, CA
Feb 18, 2015
Yes. It's a Subaru, how dare you question her ability.
By Kash Dierksheide
From: Atascadero, California
Jun 21, 2015
By Eric Walden
From: Oakhurst, ca
Jul 1, 2015
Hand Jammies! Whoop!
By nickbrownarch
Aug 7, 2015
HEADS UP

We got turned away from the Shuteye area on weekend of 8/1/2015. Cal Fire had closed the roads going in from the south fork / north fork area due to the Willow Fire. Might be some areas / roads that are a little toasted.
By Max Rausch
From: Monterey, California
Aug 8, 2015
In response to the above comment. The road in from Beasore road to trail 059 is open. Just spent the last several days up there. This place blows my mind at how fun it is. Camped at the base of the Cat Nap dome the first night. It's not listed on here, but there's a bunch of fun 11's. Got to hang out with the old fire marshall at the top in the look out tower. If your vehicle can make it, definitely head up there!

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