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Shuteye Ridge

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50 5.7's Dome 
Big Sleep 
Cat Face Dome 
Chilkoot Lake 
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Red Eagle 
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Shuteye Ridge  


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Location: 37.35, -119.4276 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 48,806
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: mike arechiga on Mar 18, 2013  with updates from Keith Kowalczykowski
Forecast:
Tonight

46°
Friday

66° | 43°
Saturday

68° | 48°
Sunday

74° | 50°
Labor Day

76° | 52°
Tuesday

77° | 54°
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John Vargas belayed by Eric McGee on an area class...

Description 

Vast amount of granite domes scatter though-out the Southern Yosemite area.

Getting There 

From the city of Fresno, take state highway 41 to Oakhurst. Drive to Bass Lake to Beasore road 10 miles to 6s42 5.5 miles to 6s59 4 miles to the gate, past the gate need 4x4 to lookout 2 miles.From North Fork drive up Minarets road.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.9 miles from here

53 Total Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',5],['5.8',6],['5.9',7],['5.10',20],['5.11',10],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Shuteye Ridge:
Afternoon Nap   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 900'   Big Sleep
Wing Feather   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches   Gray Eagle : Great Depression
Heart of Gold   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   Gray Eagle : Alley Wall
Moonlight Madness   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 5 pitches, 900'   Big Sleep
Wham Bam Thank You Jam   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   Red Eagle
Croc Rock   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Crocodile Dome
Plate Tectonics   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   50 5.7's Dome : Alcove
El Grande   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   Chiquito Dome
Welcome to the Dark Side   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 180'   High Eagle : Darkside
We Free Again Boys   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 200'   High Eagle : Darkside
Sweaty Betty   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   High Eagle : Main Wall - Lower Left
Too Old To Be Bold   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   Chiquito Dome
Little Kala   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   High Eagle : Main Wall - Lower Left
Elixir   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   High Eagle : Main Wall
Gravity Pool   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   High Eagle : Shape Shifter Area
Browse More Classics in Shuteye Ridge

Featured Route For Shuteye Ridge
The first roof on Gravity Pool

Gravity Pool 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  CA : Southern Sierra : ... : Shape Shifter Area
This route climbs out two roofs on the far left side of the Shape Shifter area. Start up an arete with technical moves past two bolts. Clip high and pull the overhang and continue up a cryptic dihedral. Bust another crux past a fixed draw to pull a second roof. The first anchor is right above the roof at ~20m. If continuing to the second anchor it is smart to extend some of the draws on the first section. Continue up an easy section until the face thins to a five foot double arete. Work up using...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Shuteye Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing the second ascent of 'Prolly Bomber' (.10...
Climbing the second ascent of 'Prolly Bomber' (.10...
Kent Schmitz on the first pitch of, O-Maggie. 5.12...
Kent Schmitz on the first pitch of, O-Maggie. 5.12...
Gerry Jesserun "pulls a tendon" on the b...
Gerry Jesserun "pulls a tendon" on the b...
Electric Eagle
Electric Eagle
The Eagle Beaks from Crocodile Rock Wall
The Eagle Beaks from Crocodile Rock Wall
Globe Rock on Beasore road.
Globe Rock on Beasore road.
Topo To Crocodile Rock.
Topo To Crocodile Rock.
Mike Arechiga on, Hole In The Wall. 5.10a, Chilkoo...
Mike Arechiga on, Hole In The Wall. 5.10a, Chilkoo...
Mike Arechiga on a super 5.10 at the 557 Wall
Mike Arechiga on a super 5.10 at the 557 Wall
The Eagle Beaks
The Eagle Beaks
Awesome boulder problem at Chilkoot.
Awesome boulder problem at Chilkoot.
Mike Fourcray on the amazing Melting Wall, Lost Ea...
Mike Fourcray on the amazing Melting Wall, Lost Ea...
The Jones Store on Beasore road.
The Jones Store on Beasore road.
Mike Arechiga on, El Granda. 5.10b. Chiquito Dome.
Mike Arechiga on, El Granda. 5.10b. Chiquito Dome.
Amy Wilkins on a super fun 5.9 on the Melting Wall...
Amy Wilkins on a super fun 5.9 on the Melting Wall...
Mike Arechiga on, Welcome To Chiquito Dome. 5.8. C...
Mike Arechiga on, Welcome To Chiquito Dome. 5.8. C...
Map to Shuteye
BETA PHOTO: Map to Shuteye
Snow Flowers.
Snow Flowers.
Topo to Dreamscape Domes
BETA PHOTO: Topo to Dreamscape Domes
Chiquito Dome.
Chiquito Dome.
Topo To Too Old To Be Bold
Topo To Too Old To Be Bold
Map of Shuteye Ridge area.
Map of Shuteye Ridge area.
Shuteye Ridge.
Shuteye Ridge.
Topo of 557 Wall.
Topo of 557 Wall.

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Comments on Shuteye Ridge Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 8, 2015
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 26, 2013
olverinepublishing.com/shuteye...

A new guidebook is now available for Shuteye Ridge. Written by Grahm Doe and published by Wolverine.

This is a very pretty guidebook with 400+ pages in Full color.


Shuteye Ridge Guidebook
Shuteye Ridge Guidebook
By Chris D
From: the couch
Mar 14, 2014
The guidebook has "over 800 routes" in this area. On Mountain Project (as of today)... Seven.

What gives?

Some nice pictures, but some solid "beyond the guidebook" beta from locals would be great.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Mar 14, 2014
^^^ @ Chris D

I think that there are some places that are better left as "choose your own adventure" areas. Luckily there are a bunch of places like this left in the Sierra (Cal Dome, Hwy 108, Southern Sierra, Shuteye). For these areas I am in some sense glad that there is minimal info because it keeps the place a bit more wild (i.e. there are plenty of destinations to choose from that are info'ed into submission...The Leap, Tuolumne, the Ditch, etc). The guidebook is nice, but I would submit that part of what makes Shuteye special is exploring, which I might add, you really had to do prior to the book being published. That said, the book is wonderful and I would recommend picking it up.

I would suggest that you just grab a copy of the book and go have a look for yourself!!
By Chris D
From: the couch
Jun 30, 2014
Got the guidebook, read it pretty much cover to cover. Fantastic. Made a plan, then headed up to check out the area around Big Sleep. A couple of notes for folks like us who have never been to Shuteye and are headed up there with a freshly minted copy of the new Grahm Doe guide in their sweaty little hands:

1. The guidebook shows hundreds of spectacular climbs, beautifully photographed, on spectacular granite. What we saw confirmed that the granite is tremendous and in places, highly featured, and the slab is clean, solid, and very grippy. Keep in mind that the beautiful route on page 27 might be an hour's drive or more from the beautiful route on page 30. Plan to spend some time at every area you go to, since it's going to be more work to get there than you think.

2. The roads in the area are engineered to confuse. Ha! Most roads have three names, which are used interchangeably. The dirt roads are generally poorly signed, and a maze of unnamed roads and motorcycle trails will add to your confusion. For the most part, Google maps will only provide marginal assistance, since for some reason, the roads on Google are not labelled with the "7S02" sort of USFS names that are used in the forest and on quad maps. Go figure. Be sure you know where you're going before you head out. Having someone in your party who really knows how to read a map is a bonus.

3. The approaches are not necessarily trails. Well, there appear to be trails, but you better find them and stay on them if you're not planning to bushwhack. We found some that were well-cairned, and even some wide swaths of well-gardened trail, but the trails were easy to lose and very lightly used. If you're planning to bushwhack (be prepared to even if you're expecting a trail), have a good sense of direction and a map and compass or GPS and know how to use them. Unless you're out on open slab, don't expect to be able to see more than a couple of hundred feet in the forest. You could pretty easily get lost out here. Allow a lot of time to find your way to and from the climbs.

What a place! Beautiful quiet forests. Spectacular rock. Even where the rock is covered with lichen, it's super positive to climb on. This place is so spread out and hard to navigate (relative to more popular areas) that I'd say there's little risk of over-use. We spent a three day weekend sampling the slab and featured face climbing near Big Sleep, and the swimming holes that pepper the stream above Rock Creek campground.

It was wonderful.
By nicolas blair
Feb 18, 2015
I have a 2003 outback, can my car make it back there?
By limpingcrab
From: Visalia, CA
Feb 18, 2015
Yes. It's a Subaru, how dare you question her ability.
By Kash Dierksheide
From: Atascadero, California
Jun 21, 2015
By Eric Walden
From: Oakhurst, ca
Jul 1, 2015
Hand Jammies! Whoop!
By nickbrownarch
Aug 7, 2015
HEADS UP

We got turned away from the Shuteye area on weekend of 8/1/2015. Cal Fire had closed the roads going in from the south fork / north fork area due to the Willow Fire. Might be some areas / roads that are a little toasted.
By Max Rausch
From: Monterey, California
Aug 8, 2015
In response to the above comment. The road in from Beasore road to trail 059 is open. Just spent the last several days up there. This place blows my mind at how fun it is. Camped at the base of the Cat Nap dome the first night. It's not listed on here, but there's a bunch of fun 11's. Got to hang out with the old fire marshall at the top in the look out tower. If your vehicle can make it, definitely head up there!
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