Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Chimney Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
8th and Main 
Another Roadside Attraction 
Coherent Excitation 
Copperhead 5 
Crows Nest 
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat 
George's Buttress 
Georges Peach 
Jungle Gym 
Mistaken Identity 
New Year's Eve 
Perfect Peter 
Shriveled Penis 
Single Lens Reflex 
Standard Route 
Stoner's Boner 
Straight Arrow 
Tomorrow is Today 
Unstrung Harp 
Venus' Flytrap And Environs 
Venus' Flytrap And Environs. 
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest 

Shriveled Penis 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Steiger, Brown, Ringle; 1976
Page Views: 1,065
Submitted By: eMurdock on Sep 14, 2004
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]


This climb is located near the middle of Chimney Rock (perhaps 75 feet right of Single Lens Reflex). The first pitch is the attraction. Climb a steep, slightly flaring finger crack. The rock is very high quality. Near the top of the crack, it is possible to bust out right to face holds or finish up the crack (looks harder although I haven't tried this option). Flaring jams and standard Mt. Lemmon funk make the climbing harder and more off-balance than it looks. Belay at the ledge. Many routes go to the top. An interesting option is the second pitch of Gripping Space (5.10). It climbs out the steep bulge on big holds with slings for protection. Many descents options are possible.


Standard rack with a good selection in the small to medium sizes

Comments on Shriveled Penis Add Comment
Show which comments
By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 9, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c PG13

Did this on Saturday and found the first half to be a bit exciting in a possible sprained ankle kind of way. I think a #4 Camalot would be useful on this lower section even though you are never doing any fat crack moves. All in all a good route that ends too soon.

By John Peterson
Mar 16, 2009

It may be tough but it's never hard!

By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 20, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c PG13

I thought it was hard but not too long.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 14, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

I agree with Eric in that the first half has tricky gear. While two bomber stoppers to protect the opening moves, after that I had to do a bit of searching. A black alien and a #3 ballnut provide pretty good protection through the initial crux, but it takes a little work to get them in well.