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Chimney Rock
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Yardarm variation to Crows Nest 

Shriveled Penis 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Steiger, Brown, Ringle; 1976
Page Views: 1,065
Submitted By: eMurdock on Sep 14, 2004
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Description 

This climb is located near the middle of Chimney Rock (perhaps 75 feet right of Single Lens Reflex). The first pitch is the attraction. Climb a steep, slightly flaring finger crack. The rock is very high quality. Near the top of the crack, it is possible to bust out right to face holds or finish up the crack (looks harder although I haven't tried this option). Flaring jams and standard Mt. Lemmon funk make the climbing harder and more off-balance than it looks. Belay at the ledge. Many routes go to the top. An interesting option is the second pitch of Gripping Space (5.10). It climbs out the steep bulge on big holds with slings for protection. Many descents options are possible.


Protection 

Standard rack with a good selection in the small to medium sizes



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By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 9, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c PG13

Did this on Saturday and found the first half to be a bit exciting in a possible sprained ankle kind of way. I think a #4 Camalot would be useful on this lower section even though you are never doing any fat crack moves. All in all a good route that ends too soon.

By John Peterson
Mar 16, 2009

It may be tough but it's never hard!

By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 20, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c PG13

I thought it was hard but not too long.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 14, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

I agree with Eric in that the first half has tricky gear. While two bomber stoppers to protect the opening moves, after that I had to do a bit of searching. A black alien and a #3 ballnut provide pretty good protection through the initial crux, but it takes a little work to get them in well.