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Shredded Wheat 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jeep Gaskin, Don Hunley, 1977
Page Views: 7,285
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Feb 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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Shredded Wheat, 5.11a, Rumbling Bald. Photo by Hu...

Description 

This may be the most classic finger crack in the state of NC! It's got sustained moves all the way with an awesome fingertip crux. You may have to take a number for this one on a cold, clear Saturday.

Location 

The route is just left of the chasm next to Fruit Loops. If you hike left up the base of the cliff from Fruit Loops, you'll find yourself at the base.
To start, either scramble up to the large, trampled ledge beneath the finger crack or climb (5.10ish) up the aesthetic arete to the same ledge. You can belay from the ground or up on this ledge.
Rap from rings.

Protection 

The first 60' (the "business") don't take anything larger than a .75 camalot. A variety of small stuff and stoppers.


Photos of Shredded Wheat Slideshow Add Photo
Shredded Wheat, 5.11a, Rumbling Bald, NC.  Route follows that BEAUTIFUL finger crack.
Shredded Wheat, 5.11a, Rumbling Bald, NC. Route f...
Splitter! <br />
Splitter!
moving through the crux
moving through the crux
Tom Caldwell eying up the pro heading for perfect fingers.
Tom Caldwell eying up the pro heading for perfect ...
Shredded Wheat!
Shredded Wheat!
matt down low on the route
matt down low on the route

Comments on Shredded Wheat Add Comment
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By ziggy
Jan 18, 2010

I didn't find this route to be as sustained as is mentioned in the description. The crux section is obvious from the ground, and is about 10 ft long. The rest of the route is actually quite easy. Rattly finger jams and bad feet make this thing tricky for a few moves.
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Dec 12, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

So much fun! Good fingers to a tips crux. It had a few tricky sections broken up by some good feet. I always thought "rattly fingers" meant tipped out purples or tight greens and there was none of that on this one.

.5's to green aliens, a few good nuts, maybe a .75 somewhere.
By goatdavemac
From: Flat Rock, NC
May 2, 2011

Does anyone have info about the crack/flake that is to the right of SW? There is a large flake 60 feet up with a bolt, and wondering about that line....
By Edward Medina
Administrator
From: Brighton, CO
May 2, 2011

It's Aunt Jemima.
mountainproject.com/v/north_ca...
By Robert Hutchins
Dec 21, 2011

While unusually splitter for a NC route, it's hard for me to think of this one as mega classic compared to granite cracks in other states. It is pretty much nice 9+ climbing to a hard sequence. Used to consider it 10c, but feels more slick/polished now, and wouldn't argue the listed grade. As far as being the best finger crack in NC, I don't even think it's the best finger crack in Hickory Nut Gorge. REALLY good route, just too short and unsustained to be mega classic for granite-like cracks. Not what I would be showing out-of-towners as an example of the best NC, or even Rumbling, has to offer.
By Kevin DB
Jan 21, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Pretty sustained 5.10 climbing broken up by good rests to a distinct, fairly hard 5.11 crux. Totally awesome route. One of the best granite finger cracks anywhere. Anywhere. Seriously. It rules.
By nickehman
From: Bloomington, IN
Mar 20, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Very enjoyable. Whipped off the crux tip locks but it eats up the small stuff so there was worrys. After thinking more about my feet it didnt seem too bad. 5.10 to an 11 crux followed by easier stuff to the top.