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Shoyu State is a sustained face climb on the South side of the Third Flatiron. This route is really good.
To get there, hike up to start for the the East face routes on the Third Flatiron and solo or simulclimb a long rising traverse to the far South edge of the Flatiron. On our way we passed two of the massive eyebolts, but don't go too high, maybe only 50-100 feet or so above the East Bench. You should be able to located a bolted rap anchor with brand new chains hanging from it. Rap into the "1911 Gully" from here - a fern-filled, isolated area. We just made it down with a 70m rope, but a 60m would probably put you a ramp that could be easily down-climbed. Alternately, you could scramble down the East face about 100 feet further to some large horns with slings and rap from there (this is only a 75 foot rap or so).
Once at the bottom, flake your rope and scramble up the ramp to a bolt below the overhang. Clip this bolt and reach up to good holds and swing up and onto the main face. Climb steep crimps and slopers past seven more bolts and then run it out to the anchor on easy ground. The crux is a 15 foot stretch of climbing that begins at third bolt just right of some obvious pebbles/holds. There's another difficult move just past the last bolt.
8 bolts to a fixed anchor.
|By Charles Vernon|
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 9, 2003
This is indeed an excellent climb, some of the best face climbing I've ever done in fact, and you'll likely have it all to yourself. However, I only remember 7 bolts, with the (sustained and inobvious) crux from 4 to 5. I toproped this after Josh led it and it certainly seemed a bit runout in places, although I noticed several horns that would actually be good protection to sling in between bolts (for wimps like me). Also, considering the quality, this is a good candidate for a re-bolt as the bolts must be near 15 years old.
Approach: possibly the best landmark for the bolt anchor are some large downward pointing flakes on the edge of the face. This is no higher than 50 feet or so above the elevation of eyebolt #2. It's probably also possibly to thrash up into the fern jungle from the Royal Arch trail--watch out for poison ivy.
|By Bill Wright|
Jan 3, 2007
Just a correction on Charles approach suggestions above. There is no way to hike to the 1911 Gully. In fact, the 1911 Gully is a climb. To enter it from the bottom is probably 5.6 climbing and to exit out the top (a really cool chimney climb) is 5.5 or so.
|By Aaron Martinuzzi|
Aug 18, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
A quick correction: climbed this route yesterday and it's got 6 bolts. I placed a couple medium -sized cams (#2 and #1.75 Friend ~ #1 & #0.75 Camalot) before the 1st bolt and a big-ish nut (#11 BD) up high and it was really sewn up. without the gear you'd be looking at a 35 feet of 5.7 to the first bolt and about 25 feet of 5.6 from the last bolt to the anchors.
Bring alpine-style draws for the 1st and 2nd bolts to reduce rope drag, and be sure to climb straight up from the tongue-like exfoliation to the EAST face to find the anchors - I had to look around for a while.