'Same start as Stylin, left of Anadonia. Climb to first bolt of Sylin and head right. Gain shelf 20 feet above Anadonia start, can use Anadonia crack for feet to gain shelf. Traverse back left about 6 feet to small hueco at feet and go straight up, stay on face and do not climb back right to bigger pockets (would be 5.8 if go right). Use small pockets (should be a cool 'trigger' hold) to gain small shelf to final over hang. Use larger pockets to gain anchors. NOTE: The route continues high up another 20 feet, but VERY loose and dangerous, huge chunks have fallen in past. Not recommended if you like your belayer.
Same start as Stylin and Geriatric Sex Machine
BETA PHOTO: This is bottom of climb
|Comments on Shower the People You Love with Bolts
|By Kevin Jarta|
Apr 27, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Easy climb, except I pulled a few holds off while climbing it so it was sketchy. Loose rock and lots of sand the whole way up. Got to the top to find a little metal tag with "Route closed due to loose rock" scratched on it. Would have made sense to put it at the second bolt, but at least it's there.
Will not being doing it again and highly suggest against others doing it
May 26, 2014
#1 I don't think you were on the right route, lot harder than 5.9. You have to stay on boltline, not to the right of bolt line that is too easy.
#2 Yes, like the tag says, the top 20 feet is closed its loose
#3 Yes, like every new route it needs traffic to get clean especially after rain.