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The crux is stepping onto and over the arete at about the 4th bolt. The rest of the route is a beautiful outing.
This is currently the 3rd bolted route from the right at Left Wire crag.
9 bolts and LOs.
BETA PHOTO: Be careful if your follower falls between the 1st ...
Dave climbing near the wasps.
|By Rob Davies UK|
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 27, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Great climbing, surprisingly open, but the "approximate grade" of 5.9- in the book I was using seemed a bit unlikely. Crimpy moves up the arete were worth UK E1/2 5c, F6a+ or Pex Hill (centre of the bouldering universe) 5b.
|By Doug Redosh|
Apr 23, 2010
TR'ed this yesterday, but it seems like it would be difficult to reach 1 or 2 of the bolts as the line seems to go up to the right of the bolts.
|By Dave Clark 5.10|
From: Golden, CO
Apr 23, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I agree with Doug. The more natural route follows the blue line in the beta photo which is pretty far right from the bolt line near the arete. Following the bolt line is awkward and harder.
From: Wherever we park!
Jul 11, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
I stayed pretty much right in line with the bolts and used the arete frequently. That said, certainly way harder than the 9- in the guidebook or the 10a here on MP. It looked easier way right, but that would put you so far away from the bolt line that I would have felt very off route.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 22, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I got it with a slappy left hand on a bulging cup-like undercling on the arete proper. Put both feet left and deadpointed up to a good hold on the arete. This was "belly to the bolts" and felt 9+ or 10-. You could argue either grade. Remember, 9+ is a sandbag grade usually *harder* than 10-. Then again, I did it with a splint on the broken right wrist and was probably over-powering with the left hand to make up for it. YMMV. Short people might have to get a little more dynamic than just slapping for a hold.
Dec 5, 2010
This climb just seems harder, because for about 5 moves you're thinking to yourself, "is this what I am supposed to be doing?"
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Sep 28, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Today I got a second lap on this. Oddly, the 1st time I wound up dancing around the arete to the left and then back and found it harder like in the 10- range. Today, after the 4th bolt, I angled up and left to the arete but just heel hooked it. Staying on the face actually felt 9- (like in Darren's guidebook). Weird, maybe I just found the exact right sequence. It was just so much easier than No Fruit, 10-, Addicts, 10-, Pervade, 10, and the offwidth, 9+, to the left of Pervade. It was just a wee bit harder than Manifest, 8. The crux seemed to be avoiding the wasps around the 5th bolt.