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shoulder workouts for injury prevention

Original Post
Patrick Wilder · · Poncha Springs · Joined May 2015 · Points: 45

recently started getting out most weekends and the gym a couple times a week and have been having some shoulder pain.

looking for any advice on some light shoulder workouts/training to prevent any more serious injuries.

what do you do for injury prevention? not trying to really get stronger in the gym, just don't wanna hurt myself.

djh860 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 110

I think the best thing you can do is stretch and warm up your shoulders before you climb. Also lifting lights weights Dumbbells are fine military press bench press to slowly build your shoulder strength should also help. Most important listen to your body. If it says rest or go easy try to accommodate .

Mike Kane · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 280

A lot of articles out there on this topic. Here are a couple:

cruxcrush.com/2014/04/03/cl…

trainingbeta.com/strengthen…

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

I've had my right shoulder surgerized and at this point it is an ongoing project to keep both shoulders in reasonable shape. I weight train about 3x/week and warm up by going for a brisk uphill walk to get heart rate up and muscles warmed up, then light theraband arm and shoulder exercises before the weights. Emphasis on "light" theraband work. A lot of the shoulder stability musculature is comprised of small muscles. Don't hurt them with heavy resistance.

I'd also say to pay attention what arm positions and movements provoke any shoulder problems. For example, if you are impinging, you gotta learn to move differently to reduce the impingement.

Really best to see a pro, either PT or ortho who will probably order PT as first step.

A lot of good stuff here:

vimeo.com/113414647

Patrick Wilder · · Poncha Springs · Joined May 2015 · Points: 45

Thanks for the advice. It seems like the way to go is using some resistance bands. Anyone know anything in particular to avoid while using them? I've heard you can go too far in some directions when doing rotator cuff stuff.

Jon Clark · · Planet Earth · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 1,153
Patrick Wilder wrote:Thanks for the advice. It seems like the way to go is using some resistance bands. Anyone know anything in particular to avoid while using them? I've heard you can go too far in some directions when doing rotator cuff stuff.
Patrick,

While some folks have posted a number of good ideas and suggestions, your best bet is to schedule a visit or two with a PT. Maybe even try a couple different ones. They can help you sort through all of the different exercises, discuss frequency of workouts, and develop an overall plan. Most importantly they can identify appropriate form and ranges of the exercises.
Neal Spadafora · · Evergreen, Colorado · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 80

Patrick,

I have had a few shoulder surgeries in my day and can quite literally "feel your pain." What I do to strengthen and protect my shoulders include various rotator cuff strengthening exercises. With that, I stretch my shoulders, and try to get them as warmed up as possible prior to climbing. Below are the exercises I am referring to.

breakingmuscle.com/mobility…

With all of that being said, don't push it. If something doesn't feel right, stop and get it checked out by a professional.

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608
Jon Clark wrote:your best bet is to schedule a visit or two with a PT. Maybe even try a couple different ones.
Yes ... There is a wide range of possible motions of the shoulder joint. If you really tried to strengthen all of them, you'd spend (and waste) lots of time. Different climbers have different bone configurations (and different previous injuries) - so they are pre-disposed to different kinds of shoulder injuries.

And even if you select only the most appropriate ones for you, but do them in the wrong way, you'd waste time because they'd be less effective.

There is one (or two) "standard" rotator cuff exercise, which has a special resistance machine at many health club gyms -- but not clear how relevant it is for preventing the most frequent injuries of climbers.

There are one or two exercises (esp. scapula retraction) that have been recommended widely by experienced climbing coaches (including Dave MacLeod) specifically for preventing an injury of serious climbers.

A Physical Therapist could give you a couple of other clever exercises to strengthen motions that are specific for the (so far) minor injuries that you seem to be pre-disposed toward.

. . . (and get Dave MacLeod's excellent book, Make or Break -- if nothing else so that you some indication of whether your PT does or does not have a clue for what you need as a climber).

Ken

P.S. One shortcoming of elastic bands is that it's difficult to _measure_ the resistance level (and also to some extent the Range-of-Motion). So you don't know how much strengthening is "enough", or what was your previous "normal" level (helpul to know after you come back from a lay-off or trip).
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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