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Obscure Buffalo Creek Rocks
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Shotgun Express 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 409
Submitted By: Michael Murphy on Jul 14, 2008

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Description 

This is a short, thin, trad crack close to FS 550. I named it Shotgun Express because it is short and I found a shotgun shell at the base. If you know the real name and FA info, please e-mail. I find it hard to believe I got the FA, since it is so close to the road. I found this boulder after getting lost trying to find A-hole rock. While some may consider it a high-ball boulder problem, it is better led. The bottom doesn't lend itself to a crash pad and the crux is at the top.


Location 

Go south on the Colorado trail for about 150 yards. Follow a old grown over jeep trail that veers left (south) for about 5-10 minutes. 13S0476906 4354473 on my GPS.


Protection 

Nuts, TCUs, to a #0.75 Camalot. I used 2 #1 Camalots for the anchor.



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By Christopher Jones
From: Denver, Colorado
Jul 14, 2008

I lead this about a year ago. I call the area Tweaker Rocks because there was a guy living there cooking meth about 6 years ago. I call the line to the right One Last Fix 5.9. It was my last climb of the day after bouldering a few hours in the area.

By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Aug 31, 2008

I don't know if I have ever seen that one, where about is it?

By Chris Mack
May 27, 2012

If this were longer, there would be a freaking line at the base of it. It is absolutely outstanding and worth doing. The only downside is that it is very short. It is worth the hike if you are already in the area. Just west of the parking spot nearest deGaulle's Nose is another parking spot. There is an old doubletrack road heading south into the forest, take it. When it forks, stay right. This should get you to the rock. It will be the first formation of any real size that you encounter.