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Shotgun Alley

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Red Sun Rises S,TR 
Awesome S 
Birdshot Crack T 
Blue-Collar Tweekers S 
Breakfast at Tiffany's S 
Buckshot Crack T 
Clay Pigeons S 
Combing Up Sars S 
Fancy Pants S 
Flaptastic S 
Flying Cockamouse S 
Ghost Goop S 
Graffiti Madness S 
Ignoramus S,TR 
Jump Start S 
Kalamazoo S 
Lee Van Cleef S 
Legendary S 
M&M S 
Mr. Krinkle S 
My Left Foot S 
Nasty, Brutish and Short S 
Pineapple Incident, The S 
premature Gratification S,TR 
priorities T 
Professor Nutbutter's House Of Treats S 
Quick Sand S 
Sacred Cow T 
Shotgun Shuffle, The S 
Silly Putty S 
Sink the Pink S 
Southbound Pachyderm S 
Spaghetti Western S 
Suit Up T 
Ten-legged Interspecies Cha-cha S 
Tommy the Cat T 
Too Many Puppies S 
TreeBeard's Beard S 
True Story S 
Two Thumbs Up S 
Vomit Free Since Ninety Three S 
Wait for It S 
Unsorted Routes:

Shotgun Alley  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.1709, -113.714 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 11,101
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Marius vanderMerwe on Jul 6, 2010
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: This is the cliff band closest to the parking. It ...

Description 

This little crag sits on a parcel of SITLA land next to the Shivwits Indian Reservation. The climbs are on the two cliff bands framing the Santa Clara river. There are several hours worth of fine (albeit short) bolted routes, together with a few practice trad lines that can be protected via cracks. Most routes require you to set up an equalized sling anchor draped over the top edge using the two easily accessible anchor bolts before climbing the route. The short length of the routes and ease of putting up a top rope (as long as you remember your sliding X sling and carabiners) make this a good area for introducing novice climbers to the sport.

On the cliff band closest to the road and parking area (referred to as the "near" cliff band in route descriptions) routes tend to be clustered in two areas. There is a northern cluster of routes (to the far left on the cliff band visible in the photo) and a southern cluster of routes (approximate middle of cliff band visible in the photo). There are also a few scattered routes on the far southern end of the cliff (not visible in the photo). Gaining access to the cliff band across the river (the "far" cliff band in route descriptions) requires wading the river and negotiating the steep boulder field.

The rock is a conglomerate, can be flaky, and most routes require quite a bit of cleaning. It will take some time before all the loose parts have been completely worked away. Holds are often thin and sharp. The climbing style for the most part is technical and delicate rather than steep and powerful.

Easy access to the area tends to draw gun shooting and garbage dumping types. Until recently large numbers of spent shotgun shells littered the area, hence the name. It is slowly being cleaned up and has the potential to turn into a pleasant spot next to a scenic stretch of river.

Getting There 

From the Bluff St/Sunset Blvd intersection in St. George drive west on Sunset Blvd (turns into old Hwy 91) for 7.6 miles. At the right turn sign for Kayenta make a left turn instead and park at the side of the road next to a fenced area and gate. There is a SITLA no-trespass sign posted at the gate. (The fence, gate and sign are recent additions due to damage caused by off-road vehicles, dumping, and people shooting guns that can potentially start fires. Climbers will be allowed to use the area as long as we do not contribute to these problems.) Enter the area through the walk-in gate and hike a short distance (about 5 mins) to the cliffs framing the river.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.6 miles from here

42 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',18],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',3],['5.8',3],['5.9',6],['5.10',17],['5.11',9],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Shotgun Alley:
Southbound Pachyderm   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Ignoramus   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Clay Pigeons   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
The Pineapple Incident   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 25'   
Wait for It   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
TreeBeard's Beard   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Fancy Pants   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Too Many Puppies   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Mr. Krinkle   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Ghost Goop   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Shotgun Alley

Featured Route For Shotgun Alley
The rope is hanging on The Shotgun Shuffle. Combing Up Sars can be seen in the background.

The Shotgun Shuffle 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  UT : Saint George : Shotgun Alley
Mantle onto a large blocky protrusion. From atop the block use thin tiny edges and the arete to get to the top. Not too hard as long as you can trust your feet on the tiny edges. If not, all bets are off. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Shotgun Alley Slideshow Add Photo
Northernmost (part of the N cluster) routes and their locations on the near cliff band. <br /> <br /><ul style='margin:0 0; padding:0 0;'><li>Note that the two 5.6 climbs in the photo has been changed to 5.7's and the 5.7 changed to a 5.8.</li></ul>
BETA PHOTO: Northernmost (part of the N cluster) routes and th...
A panoramic shot of the cliff band across the river (viewed from the parking area). These climbs are short, about 20-35 feet. It gets sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon.
BETA PHOTO: A panoramic shot of the cliff band across the rive...
The S cluster of climbs on the near cliff band.
BETA PHOTO: The S cluster of climbs on the near cliff band.
The N cluster of climbs on the near cliff band.
BETA PHOTO: The N cluster of climbs on the near cliff band.
Winter at Shotgun Alley
Winter at Shotgun Alley

Comments on Shotgun Alley Add Comment
Show which comments
By tenesmus
Jul 18, 2010
Aren't there a bunch of nice little pictographs spread around these cliffs?
By Marius vanderMerwe
From: Saint George, UT
Jul 18, 2010
The area with all the cool petroglyphs is not far from here (maybe 1-2 miles away) and is definitely worth a visit too.
By Dan L
From: ZION
Dec 12, 2010
Ha Ha since when did Biology teachers climb?
By Preston Marsh
Jul 22, 2011
Started a new route in shotgun. Its to the right of silly putty on the face. Only put in one bolt on the route but the top to bolts are in and glued so no theft is possible. (very sad to come to this) Worked best top rope with a sling and there was no rope drag. I will finish it next time i am back in town.
By Tyler Slack
From: Eagle Mountain, Utah
Aug 3, 2011
Nate and I went to climb in this area today and ran into some new fences and No Trespassing signs put up by SITLA. I called Kim Christy at the Salt Lake office who referred me to Kyle Paisley in the Southern Utah office so we could get word about future climbing in this area.

Kyle explained that they're more concerned about motorized vehicles and dumping in the area. He said that there have been 5 brush fires this year alone and they felt that they needed to do something about it.

We got permission to walk in and climb today and I hope that in the future we can drive in as long as we're not rednecks. I asked permission to post an update on this website and he said that would be fine, so I'm spreading the word. Climbing is ok despite the No Trespassing signs, but be advised...your redneck activities will be prosecuted. ;)
By shelby m
Oct 19, 2011
Climbed "wait for it" and "awesome" today. First time out there. Neat area and easy access, looking forward to going back soon. Thanks again for all the bolted routes. Very delicate routes that require thin holds but everything we climbed was solid.

Any info on the routes on the west side of river?
By Marius vanderMerwe
From: Saint George, UT
Oct 21, 2011
The routes west of the river are a bit of a pain to get to since you have to wade the river and then negotiate the talus slope. They also tend to be steeper, harder, and more painful on the fingers.
By javi
From: saint george area
Jul 29, 2012
Bouldering and trad climbing a few minutes east ad well
By Jared R
Sep 11, 2013
Went to scope these out today and it was raining the entire time so we never got to climb. The Rock is super solid and is almost identical to that of the Gunks in New York. It seems to be hard enough to climb when wet, as we were pulling on lots of holds (not any on existing routes) and there was no breakage. It has been raining in the St. George area for a solid week now so if they were able to be broken when wet they would have. Like I said, this rock type looks and feels identical to that at the Gunks in New York. I can't wait to actually climb some of the routes. There is so much potential for more great routes in this area.
By scottashby
From: Rexburg, Idaho
Apr 18, 2014
Here from Idaho visiting family. This is a great area to climb. Lots of routes at various difficulties. I love that you can lead or top rope the majority of these climbs. Just bring slings because of the the top anchors are bolts on the top face, not the climbing face.