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Shotgun Alley

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Awesome 
Birdshot Crack 
Blue-Collar Tweekers 
Breakfast at Tiffany's 
Buckshot Crack 
Clay Pigeons 
Combing Up Sars 
Fancy Pants 
Flaptastic 
Flying Cockamouse 
Ghost Goop 
Graffiti Madness 
Ignoramus 
Jump Start 
Kalamazoo 
Lee Van Cleef 
Legendary 
M&M 
Mr. Krinkle 
My Left Foot 
Nasty, Brutish and Short 
Pineapple Incident, The 
priorities 
Professor Nutbutter's House Of Treats 
Quick Sand 
Sacred Cow 
Shotgun Shuffle, The 
Silly Putty 
Sink the Pink 
Southbound Pachyderm 
Spaghetti Western 
Suit Up 
Ten-legged Interspecies Cha-cha 
Tommy the Cat 
Too Many Puppies 
TreeBeard's Beard 
True Story 
Two Thumbs Up 
Vomit Free Since Ninety Three 
Wait for It 
Unsorted Routes:

Shotgun Alley 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.1709, -113.714 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,004
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Marius vanderMerwe on Jul 6, 2010
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You & This Area
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BETA PHOTO: This is the cliff band closest to the parking. It ...

Description 

This little crag sits on a parcel of SITLA land next to the Shivwits Indian Reservation. The climbs are on the two cliff bands framing the Santa Clara river. There are several hours worth of fine (albeit short) bolted routes, together with a few trad lines that can be protected via cracks. Most routes require you to set up an equalized sling anchor draped over the top edge using the two easily accessible anchor bolts before climbing the route. The short length of the routes and ease of putting up a top rope (as long as you remember your sliding X sling and carabiners) make this a good area for introducing novice climbers to the sport.

On the cliff band closest to the road and parking area (referred to as the "near" cliff band in route descriptions) routes tend to be clustered in two areas. There is a northern cluster of routes (to the far left on the cliff band visible in the photo) and a southern cluster of routes (approximate middle of cliff band visible in the photo). There are also a few scattered routes on the far southern end of the cliff (not visible in the photo). Gaining access to the cliff band across the river (the "far" cliff band in route descriptions) requires wading the river and negotiating the steep boulder field.

The rock is a conglomerate, can be flaky, and most routes require quite a bit of cleaning. It will take some time before all the loose parts have been completely worked away. Holds are often thin and sharp. The climbing style for the most part is technical and delicate rather than steep and powerful.

Easy access to the area tends to draw gun shooting and garbage dumping types. Until recently large numbers of spent shotgun shells littered the area, hence the name. It is slowly being cleaned up and has the potential to turn into a pleasant spot next to a scenic stretch of river.


Getting There 

From the Bluff St/Sunset Blvd intersection in St. George drive west on Sunset Blvd (turns into old Hwy 91) for 7.6 miles. At the right turn sign for Kayenta make a left turn instead and park at the side of the road next to a fenced area and gate. There is a SITLA no-trespass sign posted at the gate. (The fence, gate and sign are recent additions due to damage caused by off-road vehicles, dumping, and people shooting guns that can potentially start fires. Climbers will be allowed to use the area as long as we do not contribute to these problems.) Enter the area through the walk-in gate and hike a short distance (about 5 mins) to the cliffs framing the river.


40 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',18],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',3],['5.8',3],['5.9',6],['5.10',15],['5.11',9],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Shotgun Alley:
Southbound Pachyderm   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Ignoramus   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Clay Pigeons   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
The Pineapple Incident   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 25'   
Wait for It   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
TreeBeard's Beard   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Fancy Pants   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Mr. Krinkle   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Too Many Puppies   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Ghost Goop   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Shotgun Alley

Featured Route For Shotgun Alley
Nate Marsh Staring at TreeBeard's Beard

TreeBeard's Beard 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13  UT : Saint George : Shotgun Alley
Difficult, bouldery roof start. The rest of the route is fun, balancy, crimpy low 5.10 climbing. The crux is getting the first clip...that's the only reason I rated it a pg-13. If you have a stick clip, it's not pg-13. A fall before the first clip could result in a twisted ankle. 3rd clip to anchor is run-out but fairly easy 5.9ish climbing....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

News and Events For Shotgun Alley
Photos of Shotgun Alley Slideshow Add Photo
Northernmost (part of the N cluster) routes and their locations on the near cliff band. <br /> <br /><ul style='margin:0 0; padding:0 0;'><li>Note that the two 5.6 climbs in the photo has been changed to 5.7's and the 5.7 changed to a 5.8.</li></ul>
BETA PHOTO: Northernmost (part of the N cluster) routes and th...
A panoramic shot of the cliff band across the river (viewed from the parking area). These climbs are short, about 20-35 feet. It gets sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon.
BETA PHOTO: A panoramic shot of the cliff band across the rive...
The S cluster of climbs on the near cliff band.
BETA PHOTO: The S cluster of climbs on the near cliff band.
The N cluster of climbs on the near cliff band.
BETA PHOTO: The N cluster of climbs on the near cliff band.
Winter at Shotgun Alley
Winter at Shotgun Alley
Comments on Shotgun Alley Add Comment
Show which comments
By tenesmus
Jul 18, 2010

Aren't there a bunch of nice little pictographs spread around these cliffs?

By Marius vanderMerwe
From: Saint George, UT
Jul 18, 2010

The area with all the cool petroglyphs is not far from here (maybe 1-2 miles away) and is definitely worth a visit too.

By Dan L
From: Moab, UT
Dec 12, 2010

Ha Ha since when did Biology teachers climb?

By Preston Marsh
Jul 22, 2011

Started a new route in shotgun. Its to the right of silly putty on the face. Only put in one bolt on the route but the top to bolts are in and glued so no theft is possible. (very sad to come to this) Worked best top rope with a sling and there was no rope drag. I will finish it next time i am back in town.

By Tyler Slack
From: Tooele, Utah
Aug 3, 2011

Nate and I went to climb in this area today and ran into some new fences and No Trespassing signs put up by SITLA. I called Kim Christy at the Salt Lake office who referred me to Kyle Paisley in the Southern Utah office so we could get word about future climbing in this area.

Kyle explained that they're more concerned about motorized vehicles and dumping in the area. He said that there have been 5 brush fires this year alone and they felt that they needed to do something about it.

We got permission to walk in and climb today and I hope that in the future we can drive in as long as we're not rednecks. I asked permission to post an update on this website and he said that would be fine, so I'm spreading the word. Climbing is ok despite the No Trespassing signs, but be advised...your redneck activities will be prosecuted. ;)

By shelby m
Oct 19, 2011

Climbed "wait for it" and "awesome" today. First time out there. Neat area and easy access, looking forward to going back soon. Thanks again for all the bolted routes. Very delicate routes that require thin holds but everything we climbed was solid.

Any info on the routes on the west side of river?

By Marius vanderMerwe
From: Saint George, UT
Oct 21, 2011

The routes west of the river are a bit of a pain to get to since you have to wade the river and then negotiate the talus slope. They also tend to be steeper, harder, and more painful on the fingers.

By javi
From: saint george area
Jul 29, 2012

Bouldering and trad climbing a few minutes east ad well

By Jared R
Sep 11, 2013

Went to scope these out today and it was raining the entire time so we never got to climb. The Rock is super solid and is almost identical to that of the Gunks in New York. It seems to be hard enough to climb when wet, as we were pulling on lots of holds (not any on existing routes) and there was no breakage. It has been raining in the St. George area for a solid week now so if they were able to be broken when wet they would have. Like I said, this rock type looks and feels identical to that at the Gunks in New York. I can't wait to actually climb some of the routes. There is so much potential for more great routes in this area.

By scottashby
From: Rexburg, Idaho
2 days ago

Here from Idaho visiting family. This is a great area to climb. Lots of routes at various difficulties. I love that you can lead or top rope the majority of these climbs. Just bring slings because of the the top anchors are bolts on the top face, not the climbing face.