BETA PHOTO: Shorty's nightmare is on the left, with master bla...
This climb doesn't get any stars in the guidebook and also states that it would be a nightmare to fall before the second bolt. I would disagree with both.
If the rock were a little more solid near the first bolt, then I would give it even another star.
The start is pretty casual and leads to a long, but not too hard pull, to get to the second bolt.
Getting to the third bolt is one of the funniest moves on the entire climb. A dynamic move off a small crimper/pocket to a jug pocket.
The whole climb is quite steep and the feet are poor when you near the anchors which are quite a thrill to clip if you're pumped.
3rd route from the left side of Pocket Rocks.
3 bolts and anchors.
|Comments on Shorty's Nightmare
|By Darren Knezek|
May 18, 2009
Any idea what the D stands for in the FA by D. Mullens.
|By the professor|
Jun 5, 2013
Going from the big hole near the 3rd bolt to chains is quite a stretch (hence the name). I've seen several leaders chicken out there. The holds at the chains are not stellar and beware of the cactus on the prow above!