Shorty's Nightmare  5.10d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Dan Mullens Submitted By:  Darren Knezek on May 17, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This climb doesn't get any stars in the guidebook and also states that it would be a nightmare to fall before the second bolt. I would disagree with both.
If the rock were a little more solid near the first bolt, then I would give it even another star.
The start is pretty casual and leads to a long, but not too hard pull, to get to the second bolt.
Getting to the third bolt is one of the funniest moves on the entire climb. A dynamic move off a small crimper/pocket to a jug pocket.
The whole climb is quite steep and the feet are poor when you near the anchors which are quite a thrill to clip if you're pumped.

Location 

3rd route from the left side of Pocket Rocks.

Protection 

3 bolts and anchors.