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Pocket Rocks
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Master Blaster S 
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Shorty's Nightmare S 
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Shorty's Nightmare 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dan Mullens
Page Views: 211
Submitted By: Darren Knezek on May 17, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Shorty's nightmare is on the left, with master bla...

Description 

This climb doesn't get any stars in the guidebook and also states that it would be a nightmare to fall before the second bolt. I would disagree with both.
If the rock were a little more solid near the first bolt, then I would give it even another star.
The start is pretty casual and leads to a long, but not too hard pull, to get to the second bolt.
Getting to the third bolt is one of the funniest moves on the entire climb. A dynamic move off a small crimper/pocket to a jug pocket.
The whole climb is quite steep and the feet are poor when you near the anchors which are quite a thrill to clip if you're pumped.

Location 

3rd route from the left side of Pocket Rocks.

Protection 

3 bolts and anchors.


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By Darren Knezek
May 18, 2009

Hey Tyler,
Any idea what the D stands for in the FA by D. Mullens.
By the professor
Jun 5, 2013

Going from the big hole near the 3rd bolt to chains is quite a stretch (hence the name). I've seen several leaders chicken out there. The holds at the chains are not stellar and beware of the cactus on the prow above!