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Shortoff Mountain is a beautiful adventure climbing locale at the southern end of the Linville Gorge in NC. The southwest exposures are perfect on autumn and spring days when you can look across the gorge and see the reds and yellows or greens and whites. There are rarely other climbers there, the most crowded weekend I have seen is two other parties. The climbing as far as I know all requires an ability to place gear and build your own anchors. If you just clip bolts, you might want to freshen up on your gear skills first. The rock is characterized by crack systems interspersed with wild horizontals. On many routes, a hug horizontal jug is just far enough out of reach to make it exciting. The rock is clean in most places, but there is a fair bit of lichen on the rarely climbed routes, giving the climbs an increased sense of adventure.
Shortoff North/Shortoff South
The approach gully is the main landmark for locating routes at Shortoff. For convenience, route descriptions in this section will include the designation Shortoff North for lines north of the approach gully, and Shortoff South for climbs to the south of the gully.
Take exit 90 (Nebo/Lake James) to the north. You will be on Harmony Grove Road. You have two options, left or right. If you go left, take a right when you hit NC 126, if you go right take a left. Either way, get to NC 126 and follow it North. You will pass through some farmland and golf course as you pass around Lake James. After you cross a small one lane bridge a ways down the road (10 miles) start looking for Wolf Pit Road (it is dirt). Follow this road up until it dead ends. There is camping at the end of the road. However, you have to pass through private property in your car so respect that. Keep the music down and don't camp on someone's property.
47 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Shortoff Mountain
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Shortoff Mountain:
Little Corner 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
False Paradise 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 4 pitches
Maginot Line 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Paradise Alley 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 4 pitches, 450'
Construction Job 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Dopey Duck 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Built to Tilt 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Straight and Narrow 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 340'
Julia 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Humdinger 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Just Another Pretty Face 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 210'
Paradise City 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
The Dancing Outlaw 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 400'
Help Mr. Wizard 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Golden Rule 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
The Big Arete 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Pinball Wizard 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Paradise Lost 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, 300'
Maginot Roof 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad, 3 pitches
Supercrack 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Featured Route For Shortoff Mountain
Humdinger 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain
This climbs the wall between "NBA" and "Straight and Narrow". P-1 Climb the moderate face just left of the water, and up to a small ledge about 150', and about 20' below the steeper wall. P-2 Climb the slab up to a short seam, which leads to a right diagonaling crack feature (crux), which leads to a jug ladder. Those jugs are huge....[more] Browse More Classics in NC
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