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Shortest Straw S 
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Zone of Exclusion S 

Shortest Straw 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 282
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Jul 9, 2008

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Description 

Make a very bouldery start, cruxing on a long pull from a undercling to a good drilled? 3-finger pocket. Make a few more moves to pass the third bolt and pull the roof to a stance at the fourth bolt. From here it is no more than 5.9 climbing to the anchors.

The published grade is 12a, but this felt easier than that. Might have a few chipped pockets.

Location 

In the middle of Main wall, this route starts between Cowgirl Diplomacy and Pretty Pastries. Starts about 10 feet left of the low large roof.

Protection 

9 Bolts to Anchors, Stickclip


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By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
May 16, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

In my opinion no stick clip is necessary, two of the holds were drilled and it is slightly soft for the 5.12a grade. Nevertheless I enjoyed playing around on it.