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Make a very bouldery start, cruxing on a long pull from a undercling to a good drilled? 3-finger pocket. Make a few more moves to pass the third bolt and pull the roof to a stance at the fourth bolt. From here it is no more than 5.9 climbing to the anchors.
The published grade is 12a, but this felt easier than that. Might have a few chipped pockets.
In the middle of Main wall, this route starts between Cowgirl Diplomacy and Pretty Pastries. Starts about 10 feet left of the low large roof.
9 Bolts to Anchors, Stickclip
|Comments on Shortest Straw
From: Tucson, AZ
May 16, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
In my opinion no stick clip is necessary, two of the holds were drilled and it is slightly soft for the 5.12a grade. Nevertheless I enjoyed playing around on it.