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 ADVANCED
The Amphitheater
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2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner 
2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right 
D.A.'s Route 
Dialysis Bag 
Direct North Face 
Direct to top of Second Pinnacle  
Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] 
Diversion 
East Bench Dihedral 
Finger Crack (onT-Zero) 
First Pinnacle SE Face 
Inset, The 
Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) 
Juniper Crack (1st pinacle) 
Left Variation (1st pinnacle) 
Macropsychotic 
McCrumm's Crack (1st Pinnacle) 
North Face of the West Bench (2nd Pinnacle) 
Northeast Chimney 
Now and Zen 
Outside East Face 
P.S. I'm Blonde 
Pizza Pie Crack 
Red Gully, The 
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane 
Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) 
Second Pinnacle East Face 
Second Pinnacle South Face 
Shortcut 
Siberian North Face 
Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] 
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) 
South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) 
South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) 
Southeast Arete (1st pinnacle) 
Standard Inside East Face 
T-Zero West Face 
Tyrolean Traverse 
West Bench Dihedral 
West Face (of T-Zero) 

Shortcut 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c Hueco: V-easy Font: 3

   
Type:  Trad, Boulder, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c Hueco: V-easy Font: 3 [details]
FA: unknown
Season: any
Page Views: 214
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 19, 2006
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  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route is a easy lead, TR or solo.
    Climb up a clean slab with excellent horizontal edges, then onto a ledge. This might be 5.3. Continue slightly North into a space between the two pillars- the Ginseng and the Second Pinnacle and get to the narrowest gap between them. Stem up this gap to get to the summit of the Ginseng Pillar, which is airy, but goes on big holds (5.4?).
    To descend, you can down-climb back into the notch and then down-climb North/Northwest through a different slot to the ground (5.1?)


    Location 

    From the outside west side of the second pinnacle of the Gregory Amphitheatre, near the sport routes, continue down South/Southeast below the Ginseng Pillar through a notch. Look up 6 meters to see a split block laying against the wall- the five-foot crack that splits this goes from thin to fist.
    Just right of this block there is a chimney/slot, and a little right of that, a well featured face with good horizontals, perhaps 5 meters down-hill from the split block and 3 meters down from the slot.
    Climb the face on good holds up into the slot above a ledge and continue to climb up between the Second Pinnacle and the Ginseng Pillar to the top of one or the other.


    Protection 

    A standard light rack will afford you normal 'flatirons' protection- which is to say that there will be some spaces between pieces. But the route felt reasonable and secure even as a solo in tennis shoes.



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