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Short Wave 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Smith, 8/98
Page Views: 1,074
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 11, 2007  with updates from Vertical Addiction

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Jakob getting in to the slopers on the top out of ...

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Though this route ends half way up the cliff, I found it to be really fun with a challenging crux move and some cool 5.10 climbing mixed in....

Start to the right of Air and Pleasent Danger (5.8).... Climb up moderate moves to gain a 5.10ish section with a fun sequence.... Take a quick shake off and fire in to the crux where you will want to hit the holds just right to stick the mantel and clip the chains....

Thanks to its short length and the fact that a wall hangs over it, this route can be quite dry even in heavy rain....

Location 

2nd route to the left.... Watch your step behind you there is a big drop.... You might want to anchor in on belay....

Protection 

4 bolts to a rap station.


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By stephane
Aug 13, 2011

Super Fun !!
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 14, 2014

Attention newbie 5.11 leaders: this one's short, but it ain't easy! It's bouldery, and if you don't pull very hard (that's me), it really helps to know the sequence. The long right hand move under the big bulge is challenging.