To say the Short Wall is a popular spot is an understatement and with it's distinct lack of approach, sunny south-facing orientation and abundance of easy to moderate crack and face routes it's no surprise. Although many of the routes can easily be lead, and are often soloed, it's toproping that rules here. Expect to find multiple ropes strung up on weekends as it's a popular spot with youth groups and other organizations teaching basic rock climbing - fortunately mid-week is more relaxed.
Make a left (heading southeast) at Billboard Buttress, which is the road leading to Rattlesnake Canyon. The Short Wall is on the left, facing south, just before two roads merge into one. Day use parking is available at the eastern end of the wall with room for approximately 8 vehicles.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Short Wall:
This route is located on the far left side of the Short Wall between Double Trouble (5.10a) and Belay Girl (5.10c). Climb up an easy crack system Mad Race (5.4) for about twenty feet and then cut right via a right-slanting flake system (pro to 3"). The rock is somewhat dubious so load up on gear, and then smear your way up past two bolts to the top (it's easier to cut left for a move or two and then back right above the last bolt). Bolted anchor on top and...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
If you want to climb on the right of this formation (the REALLY "short" area), get there EARLY. Boy scouts and church groups love to to gang-rope this one.
By M.Morley Administrator From: Sacramento, CA Oct 26, 2003
There are 6 fun cracks 5.6 and under on the Short Wall that make for a fun early morning or late afternoon solo circuit. From left to right: Mad Race (5.4), Linda's Crack (5.2), Double Crack (5.3), Toe Jam Express (5.3), S.O.B. (5.6), and Donna T's Route (5.5). Chockstone Chimney makes for the quickest descent.
the Short Wal as most know is usually crowded and of course really short. I have taken many, many groups there and feel it is a great formation to get newbies started. The easy walkup the back side and the many pro possibilities ad to this rock being a great one for teaching gear and the rest. It also is a fun rock to solo. Almost everyone that is reading this already knows all of what I have written. But the comments are few on this rock so I figured I toss some at it.............