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West Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Credibility Gap S 
Green Arrow T 
Insignificant But There T 
Kor's Korner T,S 
Pipe Dreams T,S 
Pipe Route S 
Practice Slab TR 
Short Headwall T 
West Point Crack T 
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Short Headwall 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 333
Submitted By: Bosier Parsons on Nov 4, 2009

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Short Headwall.

Seasonal Closures - all are lifted - 10/25/14 MORE INFO >>>


This climb is located on the west face of South Gateway Rock, near the south end of the formation, about 100 feet (?) south of Credibility Gap.

Climb the overlaps which look easy but are a little balancey and spooky. Gain a good stance below the headwall where you can place some cams. I placed a #0.4 Camalot and a yellow C3 Camalot in an undercling, but these were not inspiring. Step left and place a bomber #2 Camalot in a pothole, which at least protects you as you step up towards the piton. Step up and clip the piton and crank through the bulge. Be ready for some slopers through the crux.

Belay from the small tree behind the headwall, or you can place a medium stopper and #0.75 Camalot in a crack in the side of the block facing north.

Walk off to the south to the saddle between South Gateway Rock and Kindergarten Rock.


1 ring angle piton, #2 Camalot.

Photos of Short Headwall Slideshow Add Photo
Pennie Schwalm below the crux.
Pennie Schwalm below the crux.
Pennie Schwalm topping out Short Headwall.
Pennie Schwalm topping out Short Headwall.

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