Short Headwall  5.10b R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  ? Submitted By:  Bosier Parsons on Nov 4, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Short Headwall.

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Description 

This climb is located on the west face of South Gateway Rock, near the south end of the formation, about 100 feet (?) south of Credibility Gap.

Climb the overlaps which look easy but are a little balancey and spooky. Gain a good stance below the headwall where you can place some cams. I placed a #0.4 Camalot and a yellow C3 Camalot in an undercling, but these were not inspiring. Step left and place a bomber #2 Camalot in a pothole, which at least protects you as you step up towards the piton. Step up and clip the piton and crank through the bulge. Be ready for some slopers through the crux.

Belay from the small tree behind the headwall, or you can place a medium stopper and #0.75 Camalot in a crack in the side of the block facing north.

Walk off to the south to the saddle between South Gateway Rock and Kindergarten Rock.

Protection 

1 ring angle piton, #2 Camalot.

Photos of Short Headwall Slideshow

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Pennie Schwalm below the crux.

Pennie Schwalm topping out Short Headwall.