Short Corner 5.10+
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Mikey.
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Description This is a great, short climb on excellent stone. It is a good introduction to the art of the layback.
Location This is three feet right of the Moderation.
Protection Doubles of fingers. A #4 for the start and smaller towards the end.
BETA PHOTO: Mike Keegan leading short but challenging corner, ...
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A classic corner.
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Perfect crack!
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By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
May 31, 2011
rating: 5.11a
| This is a great route, BD #0.5 and 0.75 entire upper section, not to be missed at Zappa. |
By John Peterson
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.10a
| Very different to TR than to lead. Other than a tricky move into the wide part, everything was very obvious - it's just a question of endurance. Considerably easier if you hang a bit or have a top rope.
We used a #5 in the wide spot, but then it's green and purple all the way. |
By slim
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.11a
| Wow, 10a? I assume you top roped it. FWIW, I find this one to be pretty similar in difficulty to 'Fork It'. With 'Fork It', you get the crux over early, and then it is easy. With this one, you get the crux slowly weighing down on you pretty much right to the end.
'Hanging a bit' would indeed make it 'seem' easier.... |
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