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On the East end of the Crescent Crack Buttress is a 1 bolt route. This climb is the corner to its left. It is short which detracts from it, but otherwise it isn't too bad. It starts as a hand crack and then a weird traverse under the roof, using chickenheads, then it works up a finger crack, until you can traverse right over the "groove"y face and up to a chain anchor, which is set far back on a ledge. Watch the rope drag.
Medium to large gear, with a long sling for the roof walkaround move. A #2 Camalot protects the traverse to the tree anchor well. The anchor is a good tree, so bring backup slings in case of age on the originals.
May 13, 2009
i did this rout two days ago and i didnt see any webbing on the tree above it, but if you run the last piece out and climb that slab at the end of the roof part or if you climb up the trees there are to bolts on the wall to rap off of
|By Michael Stearns|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 10, 2010
I like to continue up the dihedral and then head straight up the slab to the two bolt anchor. It makes the climb slightly more difficult and longer. I think this is a high quality climb for new trad leaders and taking newbies up.
|By Max Dillman|
Aug 20, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
the webbing is there but as stated, climb 20ft higher and your at a huge ledge with a two bolt belay. I climbed this thinking it was crescent crack until another party corrected my complaints