Begin just right of Parental Guidance on a long block forming a ledge at the base of the wall. Mantle up to an excellent small TCU placement, then make a difficult move past this to a stance. A crucial #1 Camalot overhead can be placed - if you’re tall enough – before a powerful undercling move allows clipping of the first of five bolts. Continue upwards via thin high-steps, mantles, and positive edges to an anchor.
0.3 Camalot, #1 Camalot, 5 bolts, bolted anchor.
|By Vlad S|
Apr 23, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
This route is pretty scary between a very tricky start and some not-so-solid rock up high. At 5'8" I was just barely able to make the #1 placement and then do the very reachy crux move. Also felt a lot harder than 11b. I placed a 0 and 00 C3 off the ground followed by the #1 camalot. After that it's fully bolted.