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Begin just right of Parental Guidance on a long block forming a ledge at the base of the wall. Mantle up to an excellent small TCU placement, then make a difficult move past this to a stance. A crucial #1 Camalot overhead can be placed (height dependent) before pulling up into the undercling allows clipping of the first of five bolts. Continue upwards with a thin high-step/mantle, and finally thin but positive edges to the anchor.
This route previously featured a fixed pin which has been gone for some time now. Because the #1 Camalot is behind a semi-hollow flake and shorter climbers may not even be able to place this cam to begin with, I believe this route *could* be R-rated. If you're tall enough, and if the cam holds, then it's totally G-rated.
0.3 Camalot, #1 Camalot, 5 bolts, bolted anchor.
By Vlad S
Apr 23, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
This route is pretty scary between a very tricky start and some not-so-solid rock up high. At 5'8" I was just barely able to make the #1 placement and then do the very reachy crux move. Also felt a lot harder than 11b. I placed a 0 and 00 C3 off the ground followed by the #1 camalot. After that it's fully bolted.
By Dr Williams
From: AUSTIN, TX
Oct 26, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great route! Begins at the top of a rock and moves up a very defined line. It then gets to the first crux at an area on the face that requires some balancing moves and a right foot on a small crescent. I am 5'8" and I could not reach up to the overhanging flake from this crescent alone. So I had to bump the left foot up onto the beginning of the flake. From there, I was able to get to the overhanging flake and move up the face on some tenuous foot holds and crimps, also using the edge of the flake to the right. The rest of the climb is well bolted and moves up to the right and has 2 or 3 additional crux areas, each as difficult as the first crux. The route then moves up to the left and back up to right to the anchors. I felt it was very hard for the grade. I felt this was harder than the other 5.11's in the immediate vicinity. I felt it was a solid 5.11c.