Short Circuit 5.11d
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| Type: | TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Stone Masters mid 1970's |
| Submitted By: | Will S on Jun 24, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Short Circuit
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2012 Closures MORE INFO >>>
Yearly raptor closures typically begin March 1 and remain in effect until August 1, or until further notice.
As of March 1, 2012: Lower Merced River Gorge. Closure includes all routes with the following exception: routes west of and including "Later" and northeast of and including "Juliette's Flake" remain open.
See the following website for more info:
www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description A classic and steep thin hands to fingers crack. Usually TR'ed but occasionally soloed. Nice hang spot at the base, and it gets shade most of the day.
Location This route is located on a giant boulder on an island in the river. Park at the Arch Rock entrance, walk up the road through the arched rock and to the point where the lanes of the road merge back together and a stone wall starts on the river side. Drop down to the river at the near end of the wall, and cross on easy boulder hopping to the obvious huge boulder. The route is on the downstream side.
Protection TR off a 3/8" bolt. Back it up with a medium nut or finger sized cam. Scramble to the top from the corridor behind the route by using the arete/edge or straight up a weakness directly below. Could be led with a few thin hands to off-finger sized pieces, with an optional finger sized piece.
"Short Circuit".
Photo by Blitzo.
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Awesome finger locks at the top!
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Good stuff
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Short Circuit
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BETA PHOTO: Here is a better sense of the crack... beautiful s...
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A better sense of the angle.
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| Comments on Short Circuit |
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By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Oct 9, 2007
| Exellent line. Defininately worth checkinging out if you dig crack problems. |
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 24, 2008
| Worth leading, if only to practice placing gear while hanging off of difficult jams. Take a #1, #.75, and #.5 Camalot. Great location, and a good place to jump in the river on a hot day. |
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
May 22, 2009
rating: 5.11c
| I'd second that, definitely worth leading. |
By Osprey
From: ...
Oct 14, 2011
| Worth leading, tr-ing, mini-ing, and soloing.
This area is down canyon so it is great in the winter. But don't leave this one off of your summer list either. It is under the shade of the trees and the river is literally right there waiting to cool you off.
My friend Jason Price and I use to hang a fixed line from it and play a game. Using mini-traxions, one of us would start up it. When that person reached the top, the second would start up while the first person down climbed the back side and ran around to the front. This would be repeated until the faster one could touch the slower one. Good times! |
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