A classic and steep thin hands to fingers crack. Usually TR'ed but occasionally soloed. Nice hang spot at the base, and it gets shade most of the day.
This route is located on a giant boulder on an island in the river. Park at the Arch Rock entrance, walk up the road through the arched rock and to the point where the lanes of the road merge back together and a stone wall starts on the river side. Drop down to the river at the near end of the wall, and cross on easy boulder hopping to the obvious huge boulder. The route is on the downstream side.
TR off a 3/8" bolt. Back it up with a medium nut or finger sized cam. Scramble to the top from the corridor behind the route by using the arete/edge or straight up a weakness directly below. Could be led with a few thin hands to off-finger sized pieces, with an optional finger sized piece.
Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Here is a better sense of the crack... beautiful s...
Awesome finger locks at the top!
A better sense of the angle.
From: Concord, MA
Oct 9, 2007
Exellent line. Defininately worth checkinging out if you dig crack problems.
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 24, 2008
Worth leading, if only to practice placing gear while hanging off of difficult jams. Take a #1, #.75, and #.5 Camalot. Great location, and a good place to jump in the river on a hot day.
|By Ian G.|
From: PDX, OR
May 22, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
I'd second that, definitely worth leading.
Oct 14, 2011
Worth leading, tr-ing, mini-ing, and soloing.
This area is down canyon so it is great in the winter. But don't leave this one off of your summer list either. It is under the shade of the trees and the river is literally right there waiting to cool you off.
My friend Jason Price and I use to hang a fixed line from it and play a game. Using mini-traxions, one of us would start up it. When that person reached the top, the second would start up while the first person down climbed the back side and ran around to the front. This would be repeated until the faster one could touch the slower one. Good times!