Short Circuit 5.9 R
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Short Circuit is a route on Lightning Rock, the left-most of Batman's satellite crags. Hike up past Checkerboard Rock and look for a smooth, 300 foot high buttress left of the Batman Pinnacle, which is easily identified by a long, jagged white streak, (resembling lightning!) in its center. Begin on the ground left of the streak (which ends 80 or so ft. above the ground), at a shallow right-facing corner with a short, thin crack just to its right.
P1-climb the scary 5.9 corner, working some iffy nuts into the seam, and continue to an easier ramp which is followed up and left to a belay below a steep hand crack. One can also start further left, avoiding the scary 5.9 but also missing some of the route's best climbing.
P2-climb the nice hand crack, then continue up and slightly right over a roof and belay on a ledge (5.8).
P3-climb a 5.8 crack over a bulge on the right, then work up and right to the summit.
Descend the gully to the west, with one rappel likely, or head over to Batman Rock and do a route there, or follow the descent for Batman Pinnacle. Eds. you can descend around the west of the next formation just left of Lightning Rock without rappel.
Protection Bring some small stopper and RPs for the first pitch, otherwise standard stuff to a #3 Friend (and maybe a couple of those).
The pitch 2 hand crack leans left, so, despitee th...
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On the P3 variation. A couple of jams and big incu...
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Hope you like jammin too. This short 5.8 crack tha...
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| Comments on Short Circuit |
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By S. Kimball
Aug 30, 2003
| Pitch #1 is not an "S". Just ask the guy who left half a rack of small stoppers welded stuck in the initial seam/crack. |
By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Sep 3, 2003
| Forget Justin's comment. I did this years ago and the "S" rating on the first pitch had me rattled, but I found it to protect easily. I thought the 2nd pitch took a lot more skill at finding pro and was harder for me. In any case, I don't think this route deserves an "S" rating. |
By kevinnlong
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 4, 2008
| It's straightforward to avoid the 9 (s) first pitch to the left of the official start if desired though it make for a rather uneventful first pitch (one star only).
The second and third pitches can be combined. We climbed the whole route in two pitches. |
By monolith
Sep 29, 2008
| I followed the guidebook and moved left after the seam into the farthest of the two underclings almost directly under the tree. After that, it's a 15ish ft runout up the slab to the tree definitely earning an R rating in my mind.
A friend of mine did the first pitch, and it looked like he trended right into the weakness above the micro seam. He said that was probably a little safer than the undercling left. He also had C3s while I screwed around with micronuts.
The tree is slung and has a nice set of rap rings, so you can do the first half of the first pitch and rap. The second half of the first pitch is basically bushwhacking anyways. |
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