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Short Circuit T 

Short Circuit 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 442
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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On the P3 variation. A couple of jams and big incu...

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Short Circuit is a route on Lightning Rock, the left-most of Batman's satellite crags. Hike up past Checkerboard Rock and look for a smooth, 300 foot high buttress left of the Batman Pinnacle, which is easily identified by a long, jagged white streak, (resembling lightning!) in its center. Begin on the ground left of the streak (which ends 80 or so ft. above the ground), at a shallow right-facing corner with a short, thin crack just to its right.

P1-climb the scary 5.9 corner, working some iffy nuts into the seam, and continue to an easier ramp which is followed up and left to a belay below a steep hand crack. One can also start further left, avoiding the scary 5.9 but also missing some of the route's best climbing.

P2-climb the nice hand crack, then continue up and slightly right over a roof and belay on a ledge (5.8).

P3-climb a 5.8 crack over a bulge on the right, then work up and right to the summit.

Descend the gully to the west, with one rappel likely, or head over to Batman Rock and do a route there, or follow the descent for Batman Pinnacle. Eds. you can descend around the west of the next formation just left of Lightning Rock without rappel.

Protection 

Bring some small stopper and RPs for the first pitch, otherwise standard stuff to a #3 Friend (and maybe a couple of those).


Photos of Short Circuit Slideshow Add Photo
Getting gear before the crux moves. Lenny Miller belaying. The route continues right of the small tree and then left along a ramp to the pitch 2 hand crack at the top center of the photo.
Getting gear before the crux moves. Lenny Miller b...
The pitch 2 hand crack leans left, so, despitee the great jams, it's awkward. It's often easier to paste your feet on the slab rather than keeping then on the narrow "ramp" just left of the crack. Luke Clarke belaying.
The pitch 2 hand crack leans left, so, despitee th...
Hope you like jammin too. This short 5.8 crack that starts P2 is probably some of the most positive hand and foot jamming at Lumpy. None of that flaring, hurt-your-feet stuff you get elsewhere. Lennie is cruising solid jams here with gear placements that could hold a freight train. Too bad it's only 40 feet and not 400.
Hope you like jammin too. This short 5.8 crack tha...

Comments on Short Circuit Add Comment
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By S. Kimball
Aug 30, 2003

Pitch #1 is not an "S". Just ask the guy who left half a rack of small stoppers welded stuck in the initial seam/crack.
By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Sep 3, 2003

Forget Justin's comment. I did this years ago and the "S" rating on the first pitch had me rattled, but I found it to protect easily. I thought the 2nd pitch took a lot more skill at finding pro and was harder for me. In any case, I don't think this route deserves an "S" rating.
By kevinnlong
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 4, 2008

It's straightforward to avoid the 9 (s) first pitch to the left of the official start if desired though it make for a rather uneventful first pitch (one star only).

The second and third pitches can be combined. We climbed the whole route in two pitches.
By monolith
Sep 29, 2008

I followed the guidebook and moved left after the seam into the farthest of the two underclings almost directly under the tree. After that, it's a 15ish ft runout up the slab to the tree definitely earning an R rating in my mind.

A friend of mine did the first pitch, and it looked like he trended right into the weakness above the micro seam. He said that was probably a little safer than the undercling left. He also had C3s while I screwed around with micronuts.

The tree is slung and has a nice set of rap rings, so you can do the first half of the first pitch and rap. The second half of the first pitch is basically bushwhacking anyways.