Short Arm Inspection. 5.10+ PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Jim Erickson, 1980 |
| Season: | Gets mostly shade. |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Jun 10, 2007 |
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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons.
The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152
From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
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Description A two-star rating on this route reflects an experience significantly finer than my own- which involved trying to clean off some footholds to make them usable and also to clean out a few, thin placements so as to have some gear.
The route upon starting was on fine rack, but down low was covered in a dusty lichen- the kind that sends you flying off of a route. It is presently clean enough to climb, but could still use a good brushing to make the climbing more fun and less enervating. After 50' the climbing turns the corner and gets far easier- finishing essentially up and right as if for the left side of the Body Tremors Wall. The crux is the first 50 feet.
Location This is the rising seam/crack in the next major left facing corner left and up from Chockstone Chimney. This is but a few yards to the right of the start as for the 'South Face of Tower 1.' Belay in the shaded corner behind the tree as for EL 100, and climb up and left up a bulging, obtuse corner with a placement here and there.
Protection A rack from RPs to 3". This route requires some skill to protect well and is not for pushing your limits on.
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