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Short and Sweet 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 20'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mark and Kate Calder - 2004
Page Views: 492
Submitted By: saxfiend on May 17, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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First trad route I took an actual lead fall on. Pr...

Description 

This dinky dihedral is harder than it looks. The corner crack starts off fingertips-thin, and there's not much in the way of feet on the faces. In spite of its short length, not a good choice for neophyte trad leaders.

Location 

Starts in an obvious dihedral at the top of the approach trail, just right of three short sport lines. Shares bolted anchors with Low Exposure (use a directional).

Protection 

Light rack. Small cams and nuts, then a #3 Camalot or equivalent to protect the topout moves.


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By Donovan Corcoran
From: Oxford, OH
Jun 2, 2014

Mid size stoppers fit low (I think my first piece was BD #8) A #5 camalot will fit well where the crack widens up top (i was forced to use a slightly tipped out #4) and if you want to sew it up bring a .4 camalot and a pink tricam in addition to your stoppers and one #5.


The pro was solid but man did this route kick my ass. I had in my head some good finger locks on solid dihedral stemming for feet and was disappointed to find that at most points the crack was too shallow for me to get fingers in. Ended up having to try to lie back most of the way just on fingertips.