|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 20'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Mark and Kate Calder - 2004|
|Submitted By:||saxfiend on May 17, 2010|
|Comments on Short and Sweet||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Donovan Corcoran
From: Oxford, OH
Jun 2, 2014
Mid size stoppers fit low (I think my first piece was BD #8) A #5 camalot will fit well where the crack widens up top (i was forced to use a slightly tipped out #4) and if you want to sew it up bring a .4 camalot and a pink tricam in addition to your stoppers and one #5.
The pro was solid but man did this route kick my ass. I had in my head some good finger locks on solid dihedral stemming for feet and was disappointed to find that at most points the crack was too shallow for me to get fingers in. Ended up having to try to lie back most of the way just on fingertips.
By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse
Mar 20, 2015
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
|New Muir valley pocket guidebook says 5.8|