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The Prudential
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Machine Head S 
Measured Doses S 
Midget Tricks S 
Nice Land S 
Practice, The S 
Premium, The S 
Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished)  T 
Short and sharp S 
Soft Job S 
Soft Machine S 
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Wiggler Wants It T,TR 

Short and sharp 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: kevin McShane 2004
Page Views: 239
Submitted By: lee hansche on Nov 30, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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this is the original "anchor"... i repla...

Description 

Yup the name says a lot.

In short... not recommended. I was on it on a very cold day so i might have been grumpy but the movement didn't flow and it was very dirty.

This is the bolted route on the right side of the lower cliff. Climb a tricky boulder problem to get to a hard (for 5.10) move on sharp holds. Take a rest and then continue up the slighly less challenging second half to the anchor.

Location 

The right hand route on the lower left cliff.

Protection 

4 bolts to sun bleached webbing anchor with fixed lower off biners. Should be replaced if you climb the route.


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 29, 2011

There are rare plants at the base. Don't let your dog in there or throw your packs down, please.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 17, 2012

I replaced the anchor today with some links and fixed biners. oh and i managed to climb it. Hard for the grade and not very nice movement at the bottom. the top was fine, but sharp.
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Oct 14, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Sliced my finger open two years ago using a crimp that is dangerously sharp. With my new beta, it is not a bad climb except for the lichen at the top. I give it 2 stars even if it's not clean at the top.