Shop and Compare 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 260 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Guy H. on Jun 14, 2009 |
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Shop and Compare climbs the brown wall that is in ...
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Description This is a great journey through steep patina plates, cracks, and edges.
P1: Follow the ramp to the left of the Splitter crack. Use a finger/hand crack (gear) to reach the first bolt. Angle back right to reach the steep juggy face above.
P2: Continue up the wall with more steep climbing to belay on a good ledge. A small wire could be placed after the last bolt, but it is easier here.
P3: Angle left to hit the arete for the final bolted pitch.
I highly recommend linking P1 and P2 with a 70M rope. A 60M rope would also probably work. You will need to back clean a couple clips and use long runners on a few key bolts to reduce drag, though.
Location Start up the ramp to the left of the Splitter crack
Protection Light rack to 1.5 inches
| Comments on Shop and Compare |
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By Carl Rene Pelletier
From: Jackson, Wyoming
Sep 30, 2009
rating: 5.10a
| I'm not sure that a light rack is necessary. Getting to the first bolt a bit tricky...I guess that you could place a #2 cam in the crack before the first bolt, after that no need for gear...in my opinion. I carried a light rack only to have it clang around behind me throughout the climb. There is a place that you could place a #1 or #2 on the second pitch (it's a ways between bolt, but the climbing is pretty easy). I think that this was a really cool climb and very well bolted. |
By lucasbarth
From: tacoma, toyota
Sep 23, 2010
| Agreed, a number 2 camalot was nice before clipping the first bolt. Then I removed it after clipping the bolt for less rope drag. No other gear necessary. A fantastic sport route. |
By Mike Roghaar
May 18, 2011
| Did this route last week. Very fun and a great last pitch. I could see where a little gear could be used at the top of the second pitch but probably not needed as the climbing eases up. |
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 6, 2011
| Fun route! Only gear I used was a single .5 camalot twice on the first pitch. Once before the first bolt and then another temp placement before clipping the 4th bolt. I used long slings on 2nd & 3rd bolts and had no rope drag. 1st half of last pitch is superb! |
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