Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Saturn Boulder Area
Select Route:
Shoot to Thrill S 

Shoot to Thrill 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Doug McDonald, mid 80's?
Season: JT spring, winter or fall
Page Views: 596
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Oct 30, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Me trying to boulder it out.

Description 

Big easy moves out the dike get bigger and steeper as you go. The crux is topping out on the rounded summit with the anchors tantalizingly close, but just out of reach. Falling from the crux is kind of a clanger into the underside of the dike. Not a bad fall, but not that great either as you are outstretched and sketched before it all goes bad.

History: Loads of us would go out to this area to boulder and naturally this monster caught our eye. After tons of tries to boulder this out over a period of a couple years, Bachar actually suggested we bolt it as a lead climb. Nah... that would be light. After another year or so with no success we (me, Doug McDonald and Roy McClenahan) bolted it up. And then we still could not do it! I went back out there a while later with Doug McDonald and gave it a few more tries and kept peeling off the grainy summit. Doug finally got it a few tries later. I never did get it! We were all about listening to AC/DC at the time, and Shoot to Thrill was probably playing when he topped out. There is a pretty good "shoot" for a jug near the end of the dike, and it certainly is a "thrill".

Here is a link to a discussion about the FA and all that:
supertopo.com/climbing/thread....

Location 

This route takes the obvious dike on the south/west face of the Saturn Boulder. Start at the lowest point of the dike. Rap from the top.

Protection 

A few bolts, like probably 3, and a bolt anchor on top.


Photos of Shoot to Thrill Slideshow Add Photo
Me dropping off again, a full decade before boulde...
Me dropping off again, a full decade before boulde...

Comments on Shoot to Thrill Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Oct 31, 2012

Great narrative Russ, thanks!