Shoestring Gully WI2
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| Type: | Ice, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III |
| Consensus: | WI2 [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Season: | winter |
| Submitted By: | BrianWinslow on Feb 3, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Shoestring gully from the parking spot on rt 302
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Description The route starts as an easy snow gully over boulders. After approximately 1000 ft the gully narrows and gets steeper. Climb six pitches of water ice 2 steps split between easy snow gullies.
If the trail is broken a quick party could complete the climb in half a day, but if conditions are poor it could take quite a bit longer.
There are a few variations at different points of the climb.
Location The Southern most gully on the mountain. Park along the east side of rt 302 below the gully. If you're lucky a trail will be broken in the snow and easy to follow.
To descend hike stright up into the woods from the top of the climb for a few minutes and intersect with the popular Webster Clif trail. Turn right (South) and hike out to the road. You will likely need to hike North once on the road to your car. It would be possible though difficult to rappel the route.
Protection A light rack of screws, maybe snow pickets depending on conditions. I didn't use any rock gear though there are some options.
The upper reaches of Shoestring Gully.
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the crux ice section on Shoestring...
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a team finishing up the upper section where we tur...
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my dad waiting at the start of the gully proper...
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this pic looks up the standard rock finish from th...
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Dad dry tooling the top out of the rock finish... ...
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dad (ernie) in the rock chimney...
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ernie (dad) lower down in the chimney...
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Chris on the beginning/middle of shoestring. I th...
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WI3 finish, just before the gully heads left
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2nd pitch... or 3rd depending on where you make be...
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1st pitch... great conditions
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| Comments on Shoestring Gully |
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 27, 2009
| my dad and i did shoestring the other day and i just wanted to add a few things...
thank you, whoever packed out the trail cause i wouldn't have found the gully on my own without a compass...
we did a few variations cause there were a few parties climbing at the same time and all were fun and a little harder than the standard route...
my favorite pitch was the Rock finish chimney... i did it with just my gloves and a rack of nuts... it would be easier and less scary to dry tool (as my dad did when he followed) and bring a couple cams and long slings to sling blocks as the chimney steepens and other gear is hard to find... the climbing is moderate though so don't sweat it just go for it... |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 27, 2009
| has anyone gone up this in the summer? |
By devkrev
From: West Woodstock, VT
Jan 28, 2009
| Considering the amount of rockfall on the snow during the winter, I wouldn't want to find myself in this area in the summer when the rock isn't frozen in place |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 28, 2009
| fair enough it prob is a good idea if i stay away then.. |
By Dave77
From: Watertown, NY
Dec 28, 2011
| Climbed this yesterday with my dad. It isn't in yet, but there are a couple WI2 steps that have some decent WI2 on them. Plenty of options for slinging trees for belays. The rock looks like it could take some KBs but i didn't feel the need to place any. |
By Andrew Blease
From: 4runner, parking lot, USA
Dec 25, 2012
| I climbed this on the 22nd of December. It had been warm-ish and rained the day before. Down low was wet, and the small ice steps were rotten, but up high the ice was good and snow conditions were great for kicking steps and moving quick. Don't get discouraged if the ice down low isn't in great shape. |
By Meghdoot
Jan 14, 2013
| Hey all, A beginner climber here. Have done 2-3 climbs (rated WI2-4) as follower. I am planning to do this climb with partner with similar skill on jan 19th-20th. We have all the gear & skills to use it. Wanted to check on the current conditions of the gully. Solid thick ice / stable snow and any mix of those two should be good for us. |
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