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 ADVANCED
Mt. Webster
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Central Couloir T 
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Horseshoe Gully 
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Shoestring Gully 
Unknown 

Shoestring Gully 

WI2

   
Type:  Ice, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III
Consensus: WI2 [details]
FA: unknown
Season: winter
Page Views: 12,246
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Feb 3, 2008

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Mike Hancock topping out the 5.5 mixed pitch! Plen...

Description 

The route starts as an easy snow gully over boulders. After approximately 1000 ft the gully narrows and gets steeper. Climb six pitches of water ice 2 steps split between easy snow gullies.

If the trail is broken a quick party could complete the climb in half a day, but if conditions are poor it could take quite a bit longer.

There are a few variations at different points of the climb.

Location 

The Southern most gully on the mountain. Park along the east side of rt 302 below the gully. If you're lucky a trail will be broken in the snow and easy to follow.

To descend hike stright up into the woods from the top of the climb for a few minutes and intersect with the popular Webster Clif trail. Turn right (South) and hike out to the road. You will likely need to hike North once on the road to your car. It would be possible though difficult to rappel the route.

Protection 

A light rack of screws, maybe snow pickets depending on conditions. I didn't use any rock gear though there are some options.


Photos of Shoestring Gully Slideshow Add Photo
The upper reaches of Shoestring Gully.
The upper reaches of Shoestring Gully.
2nd pitch... or 3rd depending on where you make belays
2nd pitch... or 3rd depending on where you make be...
the crux ice section on Shoestring...
the crux ice section on Shoestring...
The approach can be BRUTAL after a fresh dump if noone has gone before you
The approach can be BRUTAL after a fresh dump if n...
a team finishing up the upper section where we turned off to do the rock finish...
a team finishing up the upper section where we tur...
Shoestring from the road <br />
BETA PHOTO: Shoestring from the road
my dad waiting at the start of the gully proper...
my dad waiting at the start of the gully proper...
Pops in front of Shoestring on a cold day
Pops in front of Shoestring on a cold day
this pic looks up the standard rock finish from the main gully...
this pic looks up the standard rock finish from th...
Shoestring gully from the parking spot on rt 302
BETA PHOTO: Shoestring gully from the parking spot on rt 302
Dad dry tooling the top out of the rock finish... i did it without tools so it goes well either way...fun...
Dad dry tooling the top out of the rock finish... ...
1st pitch... great conditions
1st pitch... great conditions
dad (ernie) in the rock chimney...
dad (ernie) in the rock chimney...
Shoestring, upper gully detail <br /> <br />
Shoestring, upper gully detail

ernie (dad) lower down in the chimney...
ernie (dad) lower down in the chimney...
Top out horn anchor on the 5.5 mixed variation. Solid belay stance.
BETA PHOTO: Top out horn anchor on the 5.5 mixed variation. So...
Chris on the beginning/middle of shoestring.  I thought this showed the grade pretty well.
Chris on the beginning/middle of shoestring. I th...
in the actual ice section
in the actual ice section
WI3 finish, just before the gully heads left
WI3 finish, just before the gully heads left
Just before the start of the Ice Section. Such beautiful scenery
Just before the start of the Ice Section. Such bea...

Comments on Shoestring Gully Add Comment
Show which comments
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 27, 2009

my dad and i did shoestring the other day and i just wanted to add a few things...

thank you, whoever packed out the trail cause i wouldn't have found the gully on my own without a compass...

we did a few variations cause there were a few parties climbing at the same time and all were fun and a little harder than the standard route...

my favorite pitch was the Rock finish chimney... i did it with just my gloves and a rack of nuts... it would be easier and less scary to dry tool (as my dad did when he followed) and bring a couple cams and long slings to sling blocks as the chimney steepens and other gear is hard to find... the climbing is moderate though so don't sweat it just go for it...
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 27, 2009

has anyone gone up this in the summer?
By Devin Krevetski
From: West Woodstock, VT
Jan 28, 2009

Considering the amount of rockfall on the snow during the winter, I wouldn't want to find myself in this area in the summer when the rock isn't frozen in place
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 28, 2009

fair enough it prob is a good idea if i stay away then..
By Dave77
From: Watertown, NY
Dec 28, 2011

Climbed this yesterday with my dad. It isn't in yet, but there are a couple WI2 steps that have some decent WI2 on them. Plenty of options for slinging trees for belays. The rock looks like it could take some KBs but i didn't feel the need to place any.
By Andrew Blease
From: 4runner, parking lot, USA
Dec 25, 2012

I climbed this on the 22nd of December. It had been warm-ish and rained the day before. Down low was wet, and the small ice steps were rotten, but up high the ice was good and snow conditions were great for kicking steps and moving quick. Don't get discouraged if the ice down low isn't in great shape.
By Meghdoot
Jan 14, 2013

Hey all, A beginner climber here. Have done 2-3 climbs (rated WI2-4) as follower. I am planning to do this climb with partner with similar skill on jan 19th-20th. We have all the gear & skills to use it. Wanted to check on the current conditions of the gully. Solid thick ice / stable snow and any mix of those two should be good for us.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jan 14, 2013

iceclimbingforums.com/forumdis...
and neclimbs.com are two good sites for local conditions, if you aren't already familiar with them.