|El Rito Traditional Area
Easy low-5th-class climbing to the roof. Make one well-protected ~5.8(+?) move to get up and over, and then it's uneventful 5.6 with good gear to the top.
It's kind of a letdown after the roof, and therefore probably not worth the anchor/downclimb hassle.
From the base of Cave Woman, walk left 50' through some bushes and start under the small roof. Descent: go up and over into the gully, same descent as Cave Woman.
Tips/finger-size gear for the crux. Std. rack to BD #1 or #2 for the rest. Big gear (BD #3, #4, big hexes/nuts) and some webbing is sufficient for an anchor at the top.
|By Minesh Bacrania|
Aug 11, 2008
Gary Clark suggests: "Stay left in the upper part to keep the climb interesting."
|By Steven Reneau|
May 5, 2013
There is currently a rap station with several slings, biners, and a screwlink at a sturdy 6" juniper slightly up and right from the end of the good climbing. Works with a 60 m rope. Also accessible by scrambling from tops of Pedernal Cracks and Shitake.
Crux roof can be bypassed left, keeping the climb ~5.6.
|By Bill Lawry|
From: New Mexico
Jun 2, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c
There is now a bolted rap station that is very easy to find near the top of the climb. One 60 meter rope rap works but be sure to hang it by the middle. The bolted rap anchor is before the 6" juniper that has been used for rapping.