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d. Strictly - Shockley's
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Shockley's Ceiling 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 275'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Bill Shockley, Doug Kerr, 1953
Page Views: 35,260
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 23, 2006

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Description 

This route is considered to be one of the top three 5.6 routes at the Gunks, with High E and Madame G being the other two. The first two pitches can be linked up with Strictly From Nowhere - climb past the first roof of Strictly, and make a traverse right to the belay just below the Shockley's roof. P1 and P2 can easily be combined.

The Shockley's access trail is located almost exactly where the East Trapps Connector Trail (the Stairmaster) meets the carriage road. This is about a 5-min. walk from the Uberfall.

P1: Start 25' right and uphill from Strictly in a large right-facing dihedral. Follow a chimney (or climb the face to the left) to an awkward step around a roof. 5.4, 50'.

P2: Angle up and right into a steep right-facing corner. Follow fun jugs to a lichen-y slab finish. Belay on the large ledge below the roofs. 5.5, 120'.

P3: The money pitch: Jam the hand crack through the roof. After making the crux move, place some gear for your 2nd. Continue through the second roof and follow a crack system to the clifftop. 5.6, 100'.

Communication from the clifftop is notoriously bad - plan accordingly (and also know that people on the carriage road will hear you and your partners much better than you will hear each other - this is often quite amusing! -JSH).

Traverse to the left and rap 3 times with a single rope down Strictly From Nowhere. The Uberfall Descent is about as quick as rapping, and probably a better option for larger parties or on weekends.

Protection 

Standard Rack.


Photos of Shockley's Ceiling Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the late great Roger Marshall in the mid 80's
the late great Roger Marshall in the mid 80's
Rock Climbing Photo: Derek underneath the first crux roof on Shockley's...
Derek underneath the first crux roof on Shockley's...
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 2 roof
BETA PHOTO: pitch 2 roof
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Jen pulling the classic roof.  (Short people bewar...
Jen pulling the classic roof. (Short people bewar...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down on the first crux roof.  An explorato...
Looking down on the first crux roof. An explorato...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chilly day on Shockley's
Chilly day on Shockley's
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber a few feet above the first crux ro...
Unknown climber a few feet above the first crux ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Derek underneath the first crux roof.
Derek underneath the first crux roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: She demonstrated a lot of strength during this str...
She demonstrated a lot of strength during this str...
Rock Climbing Photo: Start
BETA PHOTO: Start
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice shot from the hairpin on 12 December of someo...
Nice shot from the hairpin on 12 December of someo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Crystal begins negotiating the roof.
Crystal begins negotiating the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: under the crux
BETA PHOTO: under the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: I'm leading Shockley's as the last pitch of a Stri...
I'm leading Shockley's as the last pitch of a Stri...
Rock Climbing Photo: It's a tough move for 5.6, especially if you don't...
It's a tough move for 5.6, especially if you don't...
Rock Climbing Photo: Elbows, thighs, whatever it takes.
Elbows, thighs, whatever it takes.
Rock Climbing Photo: Of course, it wasn't entirely over.  Here she appr...
Of course, it wasn't entirely over. Here she appr...
Rock Climbing Photo: The best part
The best part
Rock Climbing Photo: Success!  And she managed to maintain her sense of...
Success! And she managed to maintain her sense of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Even my 6'7" husband, Pawel, was stretching t...
Even my 6'7" husband, Pawel, was stretching t...
Rock Climbing Photo: the intermediate rap right below the ceiling is a ...
the intermediate rap right below the ceiling is a ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Trying to get her thigh up over the lip.
Trying to get her thigh up over the lip.
Rock Climbing Photo: me on Shockley's Ceiling 8/20/2011
me on Shockley's Ceiling 8/20/2011

Show All 36 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Shockley's Ceiling Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 24, 2015
By Paul Crowder
Mar 7, 2006

The crux roof was the scene of my first ever leader fall, in Fall 1977, onto an archaic pin. I was sure that I was going to die. Its rating, at 5.6, is a sandbag, but it's not the only sandbag at the Gunks in this rating range. It's an amazing climb. A truly high-quality outing for the solid 5.8 leader who is experienced with traditional gear. A potential horror fest for anyone else.
By John Peterson
Mar 7, 2006

The popularity of this route has a lot more to do with the classic photo-op at the roof and the proximity to the road than the climbing itself. It's an OK route but the crux is a real grunt (well protected though!) and definitely not really 5.6. The rest of the route is OK but not classic. It's also notorious for long waits at the crux pitch--I've seen parties take hours to clear this. Note that you can easily bail to the left ("Shockley's Without") instead of waiting for some poor panicked novice that keeps swinging into space.

Waiting in line for Shockley's is a waste of time--there are plenty of better lines at the grade. If you want another classic 5.6 in the area, go for Arch / Wrist.
By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Mar 15, 2006

A definite must for anyone looking for the Gunks experience. Hit it during the week. Start on the first pitch of Strictly from Nowhere to the top of the block and then right onto Shockley's. The roof move is not that difficult. All of 5.6+. I think the tougher move is just before topping out, jamming the wide crack when you are out of your #2 cause you used it under the roof.
By "H"
From: Manitou Springs
Apr 7, 2006

I used to use a #7 Metolius Quad Cam at the crux. Fun climbing!!!
By "H"
From: Manitou Springs
May 17, 2006

Love the crux on this!!!!!!!!

I think the Gunks Select Guidebook has it at a 5.7. It sucks for short people. My bro being shorter than I (I am only 5'9") always had trouble reaching up for a good hold.
By GoBotRocker
From: Spfld, Ma
Jul 4, 2006

Excellent climb. Better than Hi E, cause the 2nd pitch was a blast too. It's a Gunks 5.6, meaning there are great hand holds from the bottom to the top. I slammed a cam into the roof's crack and pulled over it, go for it, the gear is there...

But I did noticed just below the roof there was a very old bag of sand tucked into the crack.
By Eastvillage
From: New York, NY
May 20, 2007

Seeing these pics of Shockley's is great. The look down perspective of the roof move gives you a new feel for Gunks climbing.
I have always thought that the crux of this climb are the final top out moves, rounded, steep and they sneak up on you after you have done the roof pull.
This climb used to be rated 5.5!
Whatever the grade, nice pics, cool climb.
By slim
Administrator
Jun 8, 2009

doing the last crux pitch in the pouring rain was fantastically memorable. what a great route.
By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 1, 2009

In my opinion, the first two pitches of this route aren't junk - they're fun Gunks 5.3 and worth doing! You can easily string together the first two pitches to the GT ledge if you have double ropes.

Overall, a good route.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jul 11, 2009

At 5'2", I found the first roof crux very doable. I thought the second crux was harder!

All climbing leading up to the roof is fun, happy and easy.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Apr 9, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Overrated. The ceiling is the highlight of the climb, making it a 3-4 pitch one move wonder. Sure, there's a couple interesting spots, but compared to the rest of the climbing at the Gunks this is all hype.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Dec 12, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

It might be worth noting that the route is named for one of the contributors to the invention of the semi-conductor, and eventually the integrated circuit, which we all are lucky enough to utilize whilst contributing to, and consuming, this site!

Awesome climb. Do it in the "classic" way. In the buff.
By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Sep 4, 2012

just climbed this for the first time since 2004 when I got caught in a rainstorm on the third pitch. 5.6 seems about right but maybe tougher for shorter climbers who are not used to hand jams. Taller climbers need not hand jam (if it's dry). superb gear. The optional belay above the ceiling makes life easier if you have any concerns about your second and permits good photos.
By tomde01
From: New York
May 27, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Save one or two number 1"-ish pieces for the second roof on the third pitch to prevent runout. I only had small gear left. Managed to squeeze a 0.4 by a pin. Pulling the roof and the first pitch crux felt 5.7ish
By Cedric B
From: New York, New York
Jun 19, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I did the money pitch 3 in two pitches, mostly because it was my partner's second day outside and wanted to be able to communicate with him when he pulled the famous Shockley's roof, which he did like a champ! I think the Dick Williams guidebook recommends belaying about 10-15 feet afterwards in a comfortable left-facing corner. I placed a ton of pro in case my second needed to pull on gear over the roof (it eats pro!).

I also agree with gblauer, the last roof felt a little trickier; fewer jugs than the shockley's roof. I am 5'7" and didn't think anything was too reachy, just get those feet up! and definitely didn't think it was harder than gunks 5.6, as long as you're OK pulling roofs.
By WillamR
Aug 8, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Got off route on the 2nd pitch due to not reading the guidebook. Got into an interesting traverse sequence that was more than I bargained for. I'd definitely call that section 5.7.

As for the 3rd pitch, I'd say the first roof goes at a solid 5.7. Harder than any other 5.6 roof in the gunks. Good hands/jams, but awkward.
By Stephen Bittner
Sep 23, 2014

First and second pitch are nothing special. The 3rd pitch is super fun. If you want a 4 star climb, link the Oscar corner to Strictley roof, and then continue on to Shockley's 3rd Pitch. The 4 stars here is for the 3rd pitch alone.

Also, my follower left a .4 Camalot at the 3rd pitch belay under the roof on 9/20 @ ~10am. If you bootied it and would like to return it to me, you will be rewarded with several beers at the Brauhaus and loads of good karma.
By losbill
Sep 24, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

link the Oscar corner to Strictley roof, and then continue on to Shockley's 3rd Pitch

Just don't do it on a busy day since you will really tick off people coming up Strictley's and Shockley's. Besides it isn't all that good. Oscar's corner is just so-so and the second pitch is a long boring traverse over to Shockley's roof.
By SethG
Sep 24, 2014

Losbill, are you serious? Oscar's into Strictly's is a great great pitch!

Obviously you shouldn't cut someone off who is already leading the routes. That would be jerky. But barring that, you are within your rights to lead Oscar's into Strictly's into Shockley's-- one of the best moderate climbs anywhere imho.

If your party doesn't have anyone who will be likely to struggle at the roof and you have a 70 meter rope, you can take it all the way from the Strictly's chains through the Shockley's crux pitch and to the top of the cliff in one long pitch. I've actually done it with a 60 meter rope, but it just barely made it. Depending on your particular rope and what your leader does to set an anchor, a 60 might come up just a tad short.
By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Oct 20, 2014

Freesoloed this one by moonlight, way back in the day, and got blacked out in the upper dihedral because the moon was off to the right around the corner. I was grateful for big holds and eventually turning back onto the face and some moonlight to top out. Haven't been there in decades, although the Gunks was always a good time.
By Dom R
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Nov 24, 2014

Belays are interesting here. We just made it up as we went and found some darn comfy belay spots, but I have no idea if they were correct. I belayed essentially almost under the crux roof. about 15 ft. below it on a diving board like feature. This cut out rope drag that I found could happen if one belayed further left. Pretty thuggish cruxes. Fun though, especially the position.
By Seth Hogan
From: Frisco, Co
Aug 11, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Well protected but definitely harder than 5.6, even compared to Yosemite grading. Very clean falls though, onto good gear.
By City Dweller
From: New York, NY
Oct 9, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

More intimidating than High E, but not any harder :)
By Medic741
From: Red Hook, New York
Oct 16, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Bring 2 #1's for 3rd crux pitch, both roof moves are both protected by #1's! Biggest piece I used was #2 C4. Didn't use anything smaller than .3 C4. Fantastic climb and not to be missed with really well protected moves. Cruxes were committing but safe falls

First pitch felt way scarier and less secure than the very easy second and then perfectly protected third pitch.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 24, 2015

A common theme here...the comments say IT'S A SANDBAG. 5.6 my arse. As Seth indicated it would be rated higher in Yosemite. More likely 5.9 in Yosemite, Joshua Tree, or elsewhere in the real world. No harder than High Exposure, but even Hans Kraus claimed that High E would rate 5.9 elsewhere.

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