Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
d. Strictly - Shockley's
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anguish T 
Armadillo's Delight T 
Calisthenic T 
Epiclepsy TR 
Gaston T 
Glypnod T 
Gorilla My Dreams T 
Grim-Ace Face T 
Hi Coroner! T 
High Corner T 
Midnight Cowboy T 
Nemesis T 
Oscar and Charlie T 
PR T 
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 
Ribs T 
Ruby Saturday Direct T 
Shockley's Ceiling T 
Simple Ceilings T 
Splashtic T 
Strictly From Nowhere T 
Travels With Charley T 

Shockley's Ceiling 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 275'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Bill Shockley, Doug Kerr, 1953
Page Views: 25,397
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (246)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Derek underneath the first crux roof on Shockley's...

Description 

This route is considered to be one of the top three 5.6 routes at the Gunks, with High E and Madame G being the other two. The first two pitches can be linked up with Strictly From Nowhere - climb past the first roof of Strictly, and make a traverse right to the belay just below the Shockley's roof. P1 and P2 can easily be combined.

The Shockley's access trail is located almost exactly where the East Trapps Connector Trail (the Stairmaster) meets the carriage road. This is about a 5-min. walk from the Uberfall.

P1: Start 25' right and uphill from Strictly in a large right-facing dihedral. Follow a chimney (or climb the face to the left) to an awkward step around a roof. 5.4, 50'.

P2: Angle up and right into a steep right-facing corner. Follow fun jugs to a lichen-y slab finish. Belay on the large ledge below the roofs. 5.5, 120'.

P3: The money pitch: Jam the hand crack through the roof. After making the crux move, place some gear for your 2nd. Continue through the second roof and follow a crack system to the clifftop. 5.6, 100'.

Communication from the clifftop is notoriously bad - plan accordingly (and also know that people on the carriage road will hear you and your partners much better than you will hear each other - this is often quite amusing! -JSH).

Traverse to the left and rap 3 times with a single rope down Strictly From Nowhere. The Uberfall Descent is about as quick as rapping, and probably a better option for larger parties or on weekends.


Protection 

Standard Rack.



Photos of Shockley's Ceiling Slideshow Add Photo
the late great Roger Marshall in the mid 80's <br />
the late great Roger Marshall in the mid 80's
Unknown climber a few feet above the first crux roof.
Unknown climber a few feet above the first crux ro...
Jen pulling the classic roof.  (Short people beware).
Jen pulling the classic roof. (Short people bewar...
pitch 2 roof
BETA PHOTO: pitch 2 roof
1957 Shockley's Ceiling-climber Marianne Marquardt
1957 Shockley's Ceiling-climber Marianne Marquardt...
Looking down on the first crux roof.  An exploratory hand emerges...
Looking down on the first crux roof. An explorato...
pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: pitch 2
Chilly day on Shockley's <br /> <br />
Chilly day on Shockley's

under the crux
BETA PHOTO: under the crux
Derek underneath the first crux roof.
Derek underneath the first crux roof.
She demonstrated a lot of strength during this struggle, with much of her weight on her arms.
She demonstrated a lot of strength during this str...
I'm leading Shockley's as the last pitch of a Strictly from Nowhere linkup.
I'm leading Shockley's as the last pitch of a Stri...
Elbows, thighs, whatever it takes.
Elbows, thighs, whatever it takes.
Unknown climber at the second roof on P3
Unknown climber at the second roof on P3
Success!  And she managed to maintain her sense of humor.
Success! And she managed to maintain her sense of...
Trying to get her thigh up over the lip.
Trying to get her thigh up over the lip.
He stopped and belayed in the middle of the pitch, at the top of the corner above the first crux roof.  A very good idea if the follower might have trouble with the roof.
He stopped and belayed in the middle of the pitch,...
RRuef pulling the roof of Shockley's, after linking it with the first pitch of Strictly from Nowhere
RRuef pulling the roof of Shockley's, after linkin...
Even my 6'7" husband, Pawel, was stretching to make this reach!
Even my 6'7" husband, Pawel, was stretching to mak...
Crystal begins negotiating the roof.
Crystal begins negotiating the roof.
Some good exposure, although you don't notice it when doing this move, since you can't even see your feet, let alone the hairpin turn.
Some good exposure, although you don't notice it w...
the intermediate rap right below the ceiling is a bit crunched, but at least I got a seat
the intermediate rap right below the ceiling is a ...
It's a tough move for 5.6, especially if you don't have experience with the Gunks.  And it was Crystal's first visit.
It's a tough move for 5.6, especially if you don't...
me on Shockley's Ceiling 8/20/2011
me on Shockley's Ceiling 8/20/2011
Of course, it wasn't entirely over.  Here she approaches the second roof, which some find more difficult than the first.  (But not Crystal--she cruised it.)
Of course, it wasn't entirely over. Here she appr...
My lead of the money pitch. Thank you Ashlee for the picture.
BETA PHOTO: My lead of the money pitch. Thank you Ashlee for t...
Derek and Crystal from Gloversville, NY.  Starting up P3.
Derek and Crystal from Gloversville, NY. Starting...
pulling the roof move
BETA PHOTO: pulling the roof move
AJ pulling the roof
AJ pulling the roof
Many options exist.  This being the groin jam technique.
Many options exist. This being the groin jam tech...
Laura topping out with Dominic Albanese belaying away.
Laura topping out with Dominic Albanese belaying a...
Start
BETA PHOTO: Start
Comments on Shockley's Ceiling Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 19, 2014
By Paul Crowder
Mar 7, 2006

The crux roof was the scene of my first ever leader fall, in Fall 1977, onto an archaic pin. I was sure that I was going to die. Its rating, at 5.6, is a sandbag, but it's not the only sandbag at the Gunks in this rating range. It's an amazing climb. A truly high-quality outing for the solid 5.8 leader who is experienced with traditional gear. A potential horror fest for anyone else.

By John Peterson
Mar 7, 2006

The popularity of this route has a lot more to do with the classic photo-op at the roof and the proximity to the road than the climbing itself. It's an OK route but the crux is a real grunt (well protected though!) and definitely not really 5.6. The rest of the route is OK but not classic. It's also notorious for long waits at the crux pitch--I've seen parties take hours to clear this. Note that you can easily bail to the left ("Shockley's Without") instead of waiting for some poor panicked novice that keeps swinging into space.

Waiting in line for Shockley's is a waste of time--there are plenty of better lines at the grade. If you want another classic 5.6 in the area, go for Arch / Wrist.

By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Mar 15, 2006

A definite must for anyone looking for the Gunks experience. Hit it during the week. Start on the first pitch of Strictly from Nowhere to the top of the block and then right onto Shockley's. The roof move is not that difficult. All of 5.6+. I think the tougher move is just before topping out, jamming the wide crack when you are out of your #2 cause you used it under the roof.

By "H"
From: Manitou Springs
Apr 7, 2006

I used to use a #7 Metolius Quad Cam at the crux. Fun climbing!!!

By "H"
From: Manitou Springs
May 17, 2006

Love the crux on this!!!!!!!!

I think the Gunks Select Guidebook has it at a 5.7. It sucks for short people. My bro being shorter than I (I am only 5'9") always had trouble reaching up for a good hold.

By GoBotRocker
From: Spfld, Ma
Jul 4, 2006

Excellent climb. Better than Hi E, cause the 2nd pitch was a blast too. It's a Gunks 5.6, meaning there are great hand holds from the bottom to the top. I slammed a cam into the roof's crack and pulled over it, go for it, the gear is there...

But I did noticed just below the roof there was a very old bag of sand tucked into the crack.

By Eastvillage
From: New York, NY
May 20, 2007

Seeing these pics of Shockley's is great. The look down perspective of the roof move gives you a new feel for Gunks climbing.
I have always thought that the crux of this climb are the final top out moves, rounded, steep and they sneak up on you after you have done the roof pull.
This climb used to be rated 5.5!
Whatever the grade, nice pics, cool climb.

By slim
Administrator
Jun 8, 2009

doing the last crux pitch in the pouring rain was fantastically memorable. what a great route.

By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 1, 2009

In my opinion, the first two pitches of this route aren't junk - they're fun Gunks 5.3 and worth doing! You can easily string together the first two pitches to the GT ledge if you have double ropes.

Overall, a good route.

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jul 11, 2009

At 5'2", I found the first roof crux very doable. I thought the second crux was harder!

All climbing leading up to the roof is fun, happy and easy.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Apr 9, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Overrated. The ceiling is the highlight of the climb, making it a 3-4 pitch one move wonder. Sure, there's a couple interesting spots, but compared to the rest of the climbing at the Gunks this is all hype.

By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Dec 12, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

It might be worth noting that the route is named for one of the contributors to the invention of the semi-conductor, and eventually the integrated circuit, which we all are lucky enough to utilize whilst contributing to, and consuming, this site!

Awesome climb. Do it in the "classic" way. In the buff.

By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Sep 4, 2012

just climbed this for the first time since 2004 when I got caught in a rainstorm on the third pitch. 5.6 seems about right but maybe tougher for shorter climbers who are not used to hand jams. Taller climbers need not hand jam (if it's dry). superb gear. The optional belay above the ceiling makes life easier if you have any concerns about your second and permits good photos.

By tomde01
From: 10510
May 27, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Save one or two number 1"-ish pieces for the second roof on the third pitch to prevent runout. I only had small gear left. Managed to squeeze a 0.4 by a pin. Pulling the roof and the first pitch crux felt 5.7ish

By Cedric B
From: New York, New York
Jun 19, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I did the money pitch 3 in two pitches, mostly because it was my partner's second day outside and wanted to be able to communicate with him when he pulled the famous Shockley's roof, which he did like a champ! I think the Dick Williams guidebook recommends belaying about 10-15 feet afterwards in a comfortable left-facing corner. I placed a ton of pro in case my second needed to pull on gear over the roof (it eats pro!).

I also agree with gblauer, the last roof felt a little trickier; fewer jugs than the shockley's roof. I am 5'7" and didn't think anything was too reachy, just get those feet up! and definitely didn't think it was harder than gunks 5.6, as long as you're OK pulling roofs.