|d. Strictly - Shockley's
This route is considered to be one of the top three 5.6 routes at the Gunks, with High E and Madame G being the other two. The first two pitches can be linked up with Strictly From Nowhere - climb past the first roof of Strictly, and make a traverse right to the belay just below the Shockley's roof. P1 and P2 can easily be combined.
The Shockley's access trail is located almost exactly where the East Trapps Connector Trail (the Stairmaster) meets the carriage road. This is about a 5-min. walk from the Uberfall.
P1: Start 25' right and uphill from Strictly in a large right-facing dihedral. Follow a chimney (or climb the face to the left) to an awkward step around a roof. 5.4, 50'.
P2: Angle up and right into a steep right-facing corner. Follow fun jugs to a lichen-y slab finish. Belay on the large ledge below the roofs. 5.5, 120'.
P3: The money pitch: Jam the hand crack through the roof. After making the crux move, place some gear for your 2nd. Continue through the second roof and follow a crack system to the clifftop. 5.6, 100'.
Communication from the clifftop is notoriously bad - plan accordingly (and also know that people on the carriage road will hear you and your partners much better than you will hear each other - this is often quite amusing! -JSH).
Traverse to the left and rap 3 times with a single rope down Strictly From Nowhere. The Uberfall Descent is about as quick as rapping, and probably a better option for larger parties or on weekends.
the late great Roger Marshall in the mid 80's 1957 Shockley's Ceiling-climber Marianne Marquardt...
Unknown climber a few feet above the first crux ro... Looking down on the first crux roof. An explorato... Jen pulling the classic roof. (Short people bewar...
BETA PHOTO: under the crux
Trying to get her thigh up over the lip.
Even my 6'7" husband, Pawel, was stretching to mak...
It's a tough move for 5.6, especially if you don't...
I'm leading Shockley's as the last pitch of a Stri...
Derek underneath the first crux roof.
Some good exposure, although you don't notice it w...
She demonstrated a lot of strength during this str...
Elbows, thighs, whatever it takes.
Crystal begins negotiating the roof.
Success! And she managed to maintain her sense of...
Derek and Crystal from Gloversville, NY. Starting...
Of course, it wasn't entirely over. Here she appr...
the intermediate rap right below the ceiling is a ...
He stopped and belayed in the middle of the pitch,...
me on Shockley's Ceiling 8/20/2011
Laura topping out with Dominic Albanese belaying a...
Unknown climber at the second roof on P3
AJ pulling the roof
BETA PHOTO: pulling the roof move
RRuef pulling the roof of Shockley's, after linkin...
Many options exist. This being the groin jam tech...
|By Paul Crowder|
Mar 7, 2006
The crux roof was the scene of my first ever leader fall, in Fall 1977, onto an archaic pin. I was sure that I was going to die. Its rating, at 5.6, is a sandbag, but it's not the only sandbag at the Gunks in this rating range. It's an amazing climb. A truly high-quality outing for the solid 5.8 leader who is experienced with traditional gear. A potential horror fest for anyone else.
|By John Peterson|
Mar 7, 2006
The popularity of this route has a lot more to do with the classic photo-op at the roof and the proximity to the road than the climbing itself. It's an OK route but the crux is a real grunt (well protected though!) and definitely not really 5.6. The rest of the route is OK but not classic. It's also notorious for long waits at the crux pitch--I've seen parties take hours to clear this. Note that you can easily bail to the left ("Shockley's Without") instead of waiting for some poor panicked novice that keeps swinging into space.
Waiting in line for Shockley's is a waste of time--there are plenty of better lines at the grade. If you want another classic 5.6 in the area, go for Arch / Wrist.
|By Adam Catalano|
From: Albany, New York
Mar 15, 2006
A definite must for anyone looking for the Gunks experience. Hit it during the week. Start on the first pitch of Strictly from Nowhere to the top of the block and then right onto Shockley's. The roof move is not that difficult. All of 5.6+. I think the tougher move is just before topping out, jamming the wide crack when you are out of your #2 cause you used it under the roof.
From: Manitou Springs
Apr 7, 2006
I used to use a #7 Metolius Quad Cam at the crux. Fun climbing!!!
From: Manitou Springs
May 17, 2006
Love the crux on this!!!!!!!!
I think the Gunks Select Guidebook has it at a 5.7. It sucks for short people. My bro being shorter than I (I am only 5'9") always had trouble reaching up for a good hold.
From: Spfld, Ma
Jul 4, 2006
Excellent climb. Better than Hi E, cause the 2nd pitch was a blast too. It's a Gunks 5.6, meaning there are great hand holds from the bottom to the top. I slammed a cam into the roof's crack and pulled over it, go for it, the gear is there...
But I did noticed just below the roof there was a very old bag of sand tucked into the crack.
From: New York, NY
May 20, 2007
Seeing these pics of Shockley's is great. The look down perspective of the roof move gives you a new feel for Gunks climbing.
I have always thought that the crux of this climb are the final top out moves, rounded, steep and they sneak up on you after you have done the roof pull.
This climb used to be rated 5.5!
Whatever the grade, nice pics, cool climb.
Jun 8, 2009
doing the last crux pitch in the pouring rain was fantastically memorable. what a great route.
|By Dr. Evil|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 1, 2009
In my opinion, the first two pitches of this route aren't junk - they're fun Gunks 5.3 and worth doing! You can easily string together the first two pitches to the GT ledge if you have double ropes.
Overall, a good route.
From: Wayne, PA
Jul 11, 2009
At 5'2", I found the first roof crux very doable. I thought the second crux was harder!
All climbing leading up to the roof is fun, happy and easy.
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: Upstate New York
Apr 9, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Overrated. The ceiling is the highlight of the climb, making it a 3-4 pitch one move wonder. Sure, there's a couple interesting spots, but compared to the rest of the climbing at the Gunks this is all hype.
From: Bear Creek, CO
Dec 12, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
It might be worth noting that the route is named for one of the contributors to the invention of the semi-conductor, and eventually the integrated circuit, which we all are lucky enough to utilize whilst contributing to, and consuming, this site!
Awesome climb. Do it in the "classic" way. In the buff.
Sep 4, 2012
just climbed this for the first time since 2004 when I got caught in a rainstorm on the third pitch. 5.6 seems about right but maybe tougher for shorter climbers who are not used to hand jams. Taller climbers need not hand jam (if it's dry). superb gear. The optional belay above the ceiling makes life easier if you have any concerns about your second and permits good photos.