Shock Therapy 5.12b/c
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Ladd Raine making the move off of the good hands a...
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Description Great moves angling left on big awkward holds gain the first couple of bolts. Then work straight up and a bit right on very incut jugs with no feet. deadpoint up to a bad crimp adjust your feet then dyno for the horizontal break and clip the last bolt. Make a wierd traverse move left and then clip the anchors.
Very cool climb.
I can't wait to finally tick this one.
Location Leftmost route on Pulse Wall.
Protection 4 Bolts to Anchor
Ladd Raine holding on to the bad crimp and setting...
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Ladd Raine making the iron cross move to the fin h...
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Ladd Raine finishing up this climb with one more h...
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Samuel Todiza making the hard cross-over.
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Samuel Todzia setting up for the deadpoint to the ...
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Rachel crankin' the opening moves
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Rachel steeping
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| Comments on Shock Therapy |
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By colin rickert
From: Ottawa, ON
Sep 10, 2007
rating: 5.12c
| There is alternate beta for this route. The crux deadpoint off of the left hand crimp can be done by switching hands and using the left hand crimp with your right hand instead. You can then keep your foot underneath you on the fin/ledge and lock-off to a high left crimp before going right again. I used this beta (the other way felt harder to me). Great line either way! Ideal for boulderers...
: )
-Colin |
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Sep 12, 2007
rating: 5.12c
| Hey Colin--
I used 7 cheater stones, skipped the 2 stick-clipped draws and grabbed the finishing jug...then I rung the bell at the top to signify my send to the rest of Rumney! |
By colin rickert
From: Ottawa, ON
Sep 12, 2007
rating: 5.12c
| ahh, yes, the "assisted-jump-start-to-the-finish" beta....
I intend to send The Fly that way |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 4, 2007
| the heel toe cam was the key for me and it involved no hucking at all... a very fun route and im not a boulderer but rather a techy route climber.... i like to climb bouldery routes and find beta to make it look all flowing and smooth... fun times... |
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