Great moves angling left on big awkward holds gain the first couple of bolts. Then work straight up and a bit right on very incut jugs with no feet. deadpoint up to a bad crimp adjust your feet then dyno for the horizontal break and clip the last bolt. Make a wierd traverse move left and then clip the anchors. Very cool climb.
By Colin R From: Ottawa, ON Sep 10, 2007 rating: 5.12c7b+27IX-E6 6b
There is alternate beta for this route. The crux deadpoint off of the left hand crimp can be done by switching hands and using the left hand crimp with your right hand instead. You can then keep your foot underneath you on the fin/ledge and lock-off to a high left crimp before going right again. I used this beta (the other way felt harder to me). Great line either way! Ideal for boulderers...
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Havertown, PA Sep 12, 2007 rating: 5.12c7b+27IX-E6 6b
I used 7 cheater stones, skipped the 2 stick-clipped draws and grabbed the finishing jug...then I rung the bell at the top to signify my send to the rest of Rumney!
By Colin R From: Ottawa, ON Sep 12, 2007 rating: 5.12c7b+27IX-E6 6b
ahh, yes, the "assisted-jump-start-to-the-finish" beta....
I intend to send The Fly that way
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Nov 4, 2007
the heel toe cam was the key for me and it involved no hucking at all... a very fun route and im not a boulderer but rather a techy route climber.... i like to climb bouldery routes and find beta to make it look all flowing and smooth... fun times...
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jun 27, 2013