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Shiva's Last Dance 
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Shiva's Last Dance 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rob Robinson, Tim Cumbo - 1985
Page Views: 545
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 28, 2006
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Description 

A fun crack climb that leads to face climbing and a bulgy crux toward the top.

Start in a good crack and follow a left-facing corner. Continue up the face to a bulge; work left and up to the top.


Location 

Starts about 10' right of Don't Tell a Soul.


Protection 

Standard rack, no large gear needed; bolted anchors (quicklinks).



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By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Mar 4, 2007

Bolts with quick links at the top.

Also...I think you go right and over the right edge of the bugle/flake???

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Mar 4, 2007

Jeff Mekolites wrote:
Also...I think you go right and over the right edge of the bugle/flake???

When I toproped it long ago, I started up the right side and Jerry was calling up beta that I should have gone left; by then I was committed and went ahead and pulled the move. So I guess right or left is your choice!

Thanks for the anchor info, I'll update the route.

By Joey Wolfe
Mar 23, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

This one is a touch run out in places.

And don't get suckered right at the second small roof, pull right over the flake/edge of the small roof. I went too far right like a bonehead and it is a bad scene.

By Thierry
From: Murfreesboro, TN
Nov 13, 2011

Fun moves. Good route but I would definitely call it run-out in several places. The first roof is an interesting problem to solve, but protects well underneath. The second roof/edge to the right is just burly but ok. I found the placements especially above the first roof to be few and tricky. Take all your smallest wires (and pink, red tricam).