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Shiva's Dance 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 693
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
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  • Description 

    Great flake, and a stout 5.7 grade. On the bottom of the South Tower, find a crack to the R. of a small pinnacle. One pitch up to some questionable fixed pins, and then downclimb the gully to the R. There is a second pitch that requires aid I believe.


    Protection 

    Cams in the 0.5-2" range, wired stoppers, and some larger hexes.



    Photos of Shiva's Dance Slideshow Add Photo
    Luke on the thin hands crack at the start.
    Luke on the thin hands crack at the start.
    Luke in the crux upper corner.
    Luke in the crux upper corner.
    Comments on Shiva's Dance Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    Jul 30, 2004
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

    Great route! One of those pitches, like Star Wars, that you wish was about 30 feet longer. Sustained and thoughtful. Once again, watch out for the poison ivy....and the trains!

    As a side-note, regarding the trains, Pete Cogan has a great way of accessing MM Wall. His email can be found in the Climbing Boulder Community page.

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jan 23, 2006
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c PG13

    Route is short, and although not bad, there are certainly much better climbs in the area.
    Pro was available, but not great- a little complex as I recall.
    Probably a little bit of a sandbag too.

    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Oct 15, 2010

    I thought this first pitch of Shiva's Dance was very good and am surprised that I had never climbed it, and perhaps never even noticed it. There is a two bolt anchor at the top for rapping. You can toprope The Offset (hard and thin and sketchy gear) from there.