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Shittin Bricks 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jason Sands
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,506
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 17, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Shittin Bricks takes THE line to the top on this o...

Description 

Shittin Bricks is one of the longest 5.12s at the Forks and is a full value adventure. Start off on a thankfully short chossy band of sandstone. Work the tight finger jams, positive small edges and gastons, and some burly stemming to reach easier climbing... Slightly smaller than average fingers might be an advantage on this one.

The rest of the route is really fun, and varied with all sorts of different crack styles. Although the grade backs off it certainly keeps after you to the top! A long classic if you are looking for such...

This is also a good one to save for a strong onsight attempt as the gear is good and it is one of only two .12- routes at the Forks that's a safe bet for such.


Location 

Around the corner from the Prow, past Yardarm and all that. It kind of just appears with not too much else around it.


Protection 

Though the protection can seem dubious off the start, several good #0 and #1 TCUs will see you through to bigger gear. Then doubles from #.4 through #1 camalots. If your gonna bulk up bring extra medium units. Nothing bigger than a #1 Camalot, aside from an optional #4 at the top. Small/medium wires.



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By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Mar 30, 2009

12a seems reasonable. In your face at the start to cruiser 5.10 climbing for a long ways. Requires the ability to perform all crack skills...stemming, laybacking, fingers, hands, flare, wide, face, etc. Deserves more ascents than it gets.

By Tamara Hastie
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Aug 1, 2012

one of the best :) extremely fun!