|a. The Uberfall
Start at the crack, climb up the face and into the orange open book. Traverse left until you're 5 feet from the seam in the No Picnic roof. Pull over the roof to a stance, climb up, clip the pin, back it up and climb over the final overhangs.
Start at the crack 20 feet right of No Picnic, in the alcove above and to the left of the Gerdie block.
Typical gunks rack, there is a pin (manky and old) at the second (easier) overhang.
BETA PHOTO: I went straight up the slab beneath the vertical f...
From: Wayne, PA
Jul 11, 2010
I like this climb. I do a variation that I call "no shit". Start up No Picnic and then traverse right to the Shit or Go Blind roof. Pull both roofs and finish up at the top of No Picnic.
Jul 26, 2010
With 20ft static line you can top rope several trees 5 to 10ft right (stage left) of rap station directly over the center of Shit or Go blind.
(V1- 5.10 a) – start at the crack and follow up. At the 1st roof traverse right and pull the right hand corner avoiding "Sudoriferous" (5.2). If you fall on top rope here you will swing so don’t. Work your way up to more over hangs and then left to finish at the "No Picnic" rap station. Grey Dick book has a good picture of the line in the back.
(V2- 5.10c) – start at the crack and follow up. At the 1st roof traverse right and pull the center of the overhang. Avoid the small hold under the roof that wiggles, you can grab just below that. Climb straight up to more over hangs finish with the others at the rap station.
May 11, 2011
I enjoyed Shit or Go Blind. Two nice cruxes, both soft for the grade in my opinion. Good pro, I placed two cams after the pin in the first set of overhangs. I don't know why Gail gave this a pg13, unless she meant for the opening moves. You get up a ways before the pro appears, but there's good pro the whole rest of the way.
|By Indigo Dragon|
From: Fairfield, CT
Aug 25, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
This climb is easily missed when you first walk in, and always open. I wanted to climb it because of the name. It is more of a 5.6 than a 5.8, but it is a nice warm up and takes lots of good pro.
From: Mahwah, NJ
Nov 3, 2013
I think this route is pretty soft for Gunks 5.8. The gear is less than good, but who cares - it's a jug haul with great feet! A fun variation that I made up is to go straight up from the start to the overhang.. The variation probably goes at 5.8+ and is definitely R-rated.