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a. The Uberfall
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Shit or Go Blind 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Joe Ponte and Ivan Rezucha, 1974
Page Views: 2,905
Submitted By: gblauer on May 16, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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I know of this to be variation 3, don't know if it...

Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>


Start at the crack, climb up the face and into the orange open book. Traverse left until you're 5 feet from the seam in the No Picnic roof. Pull over the roof to a stance, climb up, clip the pin, back it up and climb over the final overhangs. Bolted belay next to the tree.


Start at the crack 20 feet right of No Picnic, in the alcove above and to the left of the Gerdie block.


Typical gunks rack, there is a pin (manky and old) at the second (easier) overhang.

Photos of Shit or Go Blind Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Shit or Go Blind
BETA PHOTO: Shit or Go Blind
Rock Climbing Photo: I went straight up the slab beneath the vertical f...
BETA PHOTO: I went straight up the slab beneath the vertical f...
Rock Climbing Photo: Going through it
Going through it

Comments on Shit or Go Blind Add Comment
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By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jul 11, 2010

I like this climb. I do a variation that I call "no shit". Start up No Picnic and then traverse right to the Shit or Go Blind roof. Pull both roofs and finish up at the top of No Picnic.
By counch
Jul 26, 2010

With 20ft static line you can top rope several trees 5 to 10ft right (stage left) of rap station directly over the center of Shit or Go blind.

(V1- 5.10 a) – start at the crack and follow up. At the 1st roof traverse right and pull the right hand corner avoiding "Sudoriferous" (5.2). If you fall on top rope here you will swing so don’t. Work your way up to more over hangs and then left to finish at the "No Picnic" rap station. Grey Dick book has a good picture of the line in the back.

(V2- 5.10c) – start at the crack and follow up. At the 1st roof traverse right and pull the center of the overhang. Avoid the small hold under the roof that wiggles, you can grab just below that. Climb straight up to more over hangs finish with the others at the rap station.
By SethG
May 11, 2011

I enjoyed Shit or Go Blind. Two nice cruxes, both soft for the grade in my opinion. Good pro, I placed two cams after the pin in the first set of overhangs. I don't know why Gail gave this a pg13, unless she meant for the opening moves. You get up a ways before the pro appears, but there's good pro the whole rest of the way.
By Alex Ch
From: Fairfield, CT
Aug 25, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This climb is easily missed when you first walk in, and always open. I wanted to climb it because of the name. It is more of a 5.6 than a 5.8, but it is a nice warm up and takes lots of good pro.
By JonP756
From: Mahwah, NJ
Nov 3, 2013

I think this route is pretty soft for Gunks 5.8. The gear is less than good, but who cares - it's a jug haul with great feet! A fun variation that I made up is to go straight up from the start to the overhang.. The variation probably goes at 5.8+ and is definitely R-rated.
By Michael G
Apr 13, 2015

I hit the first overhang where the line in the "beta" photo hits the first overhang, but I trended right to pull it, not left (as the line does in the photo). This felt 5.8. By trending left (and closer to No Picnic), it may make it easier? I also feel that the gear pulling the first overhang this way was not totally G.
By Eric Lutz
May 5, 2015

Originally thought the route went right under the roof. Took my first lead fall just before making my way around the exit. Took years before I found out that I hadn't fallen on an .8!
By Gunks Jesse
From: Shawangunk Township, NY
Jun 15, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If you set up a top rope directly over the two ceilings beware of loose rock on the ledges above. It isn't a problem until you pull the rope at the end of the day. The loose end whipping down may cause a shower of pebbles to rain down on you and any bystanders. It might be best to pull the rope a different way.

The line in the photo feels soft for a Gunks 5.8. Super comfortable though. Definitely a nice cruiser!
By john2.71
From: Montclair, NJ
Aug 7, 2015

How do you protect the crux? I couldn't find any pro. I ended up placing far left in No Picnic's crack.
By Eric Lutz
Oct 13, 2015

Did all three variations for the first time in a decade, Felt AMAZING pulling straight through the roof!!

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