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 ADVANCED
The Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Walk in the Light 
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) 
Aloof Roof 
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do 
Command Performance 
Do or Dive 
Doan's Pills 
Excellent Adventure 
Finger Love 
High Wire 
Nuclear Crayon 
Quaker State 
Raise Hell 
Shit Hook 
Stab in the Dark 
Step and Fetch 
Wailing Wall 
Zombie Woof 

Shit Hook 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Howard, Rich Gottlieb, Bob Rotert - 1978
Page Views: 1,024
Submitted By: sean barb on Mar 13, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: The left facing flake start of Shithook.
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An obvious, thin crack marks the start of this nice face. Take care to get good gear early and often as the beginning layback feature is a little hollow.


Location 

Starts at a large left-facing flake at the right end of the Amphitheater, about 35' right of Stab in the Dark. Rap from fixed anchor on ledge below Finger Love/Zombie Woof (Stab in the Dark anchors).


Protection 

Nuts and mid-sized cams. Finishes with a traverse, so rack some longer slings.



Photos of Shit Hook Slideshow Add Photo
Getting underway. Moving through here and working the undercling flake is where one might get into trouble as it can be strenuous.
BETA PHOTO: Getting underway. Moving through here and working ...
punching to the jug to pull through the crux.
punching to the jug to pull through the crux.
Comments on Shit Hook Add Comment
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By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

You can run this all the way up the face (above the business end) with the cool water grooves and end at the tree with rap slings. From there, you can rap around the corner to the left and find the Stab in the Dark anchors. Two ropes will get you to the ground from the tree with rap slings.

By Emil Briggs
Sep 30, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

The gear at the start can be a little tricky. Saw a guy deck when he fell and pulled a piece. Fortunately he missed the block at the bottom and didn't get hurt too badly.

By Matt Westlake
Oct 11, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

Emil, whereabouts was the gear that pulled? I plugged in a few small things (tiny cams and a couple nuts) on the way up the thin flake and got a dubious #3/blue C4 in the bigger opening that I didn't really trust. My goal was really just to spread out the load with all that.

Above, just before the crux I got what seemed like a pretty good #1/red C4. I hope that wasn't the one that blew out because it seemed important.

By Emil Briggs
Oct 17, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

Matt the piece that pulled was lower down. There is good gear at the crux but the stuff before that is questionable. Landing on that block would be nasty too.