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 ADVANCED
West Face - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acrobat, The T 
Angle Iron Traverse T 
Coffin Nail T 
Crimes of Passion T 
Dos Equis T 
Edge, The T 
El Camino Real T 
Fingergrip T 
Fingertip Traverse T 
Fingertrip T 
Hangover, The T 
Jensen's Jaunt T 
Last Judgment T 
On the Road T 
Pearly Gate T 
Pigs in Bondage T 
Shit for Brains T 
Slab, The T 
Toe Tip T 
Traitor Horn T 
Unknown? T 

Shit for Brains 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Powell, 1966
Page Views: 834
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

This is a one pitch face route, nothing special. Rappel from a tree at the end of the climb.

Protection 

Some small gear for the crack below the first bolt.


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By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 3, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

So-so climbing on it's own, but it can be done as an alternate first pitch to Fingertrip when that route is crowded.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 6, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

kind of odd to protect as I recall (pod or pocket), although bolts protect afterwards.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Aug 14, 2007

The crux is pretty simple and nice to make you feel good about yourself. Once you get to the first bolt (one committing move) the rest feels very well protected. The upper face is really easy.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 12, 2008

A #1 Friend fits just right in that pocket and is the key pro.
By tom donnelly
May 21, 2012

Adding to the namesake of this route, often the bottom is splattered in sap.