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West Face - Right Side
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Fingertrip T 
Hangover, The T 
Jensen's Jaunt T 
Last Judgment T 
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Pigs in Bondage T 
Shit for Brains T 
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Shit for Brains 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Powell, 1966
Page Views: 936
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006  with updates from Benjamin Chapman

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Description 

"Shit For Brains" lies in short distance right of where the trail going south from Lunch Rock first touches the base of the rock. Four bolts will be seen on the slab above. Climb a debris filled crack on the left side of the slab. At the cracks end move right onto the face and work up and right to a flared hole that takes gear. Continue up the steepening face to a high first bolt. Climb up and left from the bolt over orange rock to more featured rock and a second bolt. Pass a horizontal that takes a 0.5 cam to reach a 3rd bolt. You will climb past four bolts total to a ledge with a pine tree (105) feet. "Shit for Brains" is a rope stretcher, so be careful. It is advisable for the belayer to move up the rocky step to the right in order for the rope to reach the ground, if toproping . Although the runout nature of "Shit For Brains" may not appeal to some it is a fun endeavor for those wishing to test their face climbing/ friction skills.

Rappel from a tree at the end of the climb.

Protection 

Some small gear for the crack below the first bolt.


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By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 3, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

So-so climbing on it's own, but it can be done as an alternate first pitch to Fingertrip when that route is crowded.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 6, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

kind of odd to protect as I recall (pod or pocket), although bolts protect afterwards.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Aug 14, 2007

The crux is pretty simple and nice to make you feel good about yourself. Once you get to the first bolt (one committing move) the rest feels very well protected. The upper face is really easy.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 12, 2008

A #1 Friend fits just right in that pocket and is the key pro.
By tom donnelly
May 21, 2012

Adding to the namesake of this route, often the bottom is splattered in sap.
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