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 ADVANCED
Crack Land
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ancient Fright S 
Ancient Light T,S 
Ancient Sight T 
Art Of War, The S 
Blade T 
Crack Love T 
Crack Love II T 
Crack Love III T 
Enemy Within, The T 
Ghost Ship T 
Mystery Ship S 
Mystery Tour T 
Resurrection T 
Ship of Fools T 
Thus Us T 
War Horse T,S 

Ship of Fools 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, July 2006
New Route: Yes
Season: Not Winter
Page Views: 1,102
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Jul 7, 2006

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Ship of Fools, the actual first lead.

These crack...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The 3 crack climbs, Ghost Ship, Ship of Fools, & Mystery Tour (aka Crack Land Dihedral) begin from a common system and branch to individual lines after the first 25 feet. Begin about 10 feet left of Mystery Ship and follow vague, blocky terrain to where the lines diverge (5.6, gear to 1 inch, 25 feet). All 3 lines top out at the belay tree for Dragon Slayer. Lower off or rappel 90 feet from slings with rings. Extensive cleaning and trail work have been done to provide access to these excellent crack climbs.

These routes are located on the NW corner of the Third Tier of Avalon, just left of Mystery Ship. This is actually the far right side of the NE Face, perhaps 100 feet right of Ancient Light.

Ship of Fools: Climb a right-facing corner to a small roof, pull right and jam a perfect hand crack to where it narrows. Continue up difficult terrain to a horizontal break. Step right and climb a flared crack to the alcove at the top of Mystery Tour. Climb a short crack on the left wall and gain a good ledge and the belay tree for Dragon Slayer.

Location 

This is the middle of the three cracks in the Crack Land Dihedral. Begin 10 feet left of Mystery Ship.

Protection 

Nuts and cams from 0.5 inches to 3.5 inches. Lower off or rappel 90 feet from slings with rings around a tree.


Photos of Ship of Fools Slideshow Add Photo
Richard Rossiter on the FA of Ship of Fools.  Photo by Pebby Johns
Richard Rossiter on the FA of Ship of Fools. Phot...
RR committing to the hand crack.
RR committing to the hand crack.
Crack Land as viewed from the trail that runs along beneath the Northeast Face, Third Tier of Avalon.
BETA PHOTO: Crack Land as viewed from the trail that runs alon...

Comments on Ship of Fools Add Comment
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By mikeneu
Jul 17, 2006

Nice hand crack and great work on the trail from here to Crack Love.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 19, 2007

Ship of Fools is a fun climb with solid gear. It's one of the cleaner routes up in crack land and should not be missed. Ends up being about 90 feet to the tree. Rap off of two slings with two rap rings. Someone could do a service and replace the slings. I would have but I just used my last ones yesterday. SR to #2 Camalot. Maybe a #3.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 19, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I think the route is more like 80' or maybe less. I'm pretty sure a 50m would reach all, but I didn't try, because I don't own a 50m (short ropes are not sexy). Anyway, pretty good climbing, but watch the black right before the overlap in the handcrack- there is fresh breakage in the area and a good dictionary-sized chunk looks and sounds ready to go next.
Also, the uppser section where it goes right might not be best for a tentative leader at this grade. There are a few, but not a lot of gear options.
By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
Jul 18, 2010

Regarding the "good dictionary sized chunk" - it was hanging on by a thread and we trundled it. The whole block just left of the number "2" in this photo is now gone: mountainproject.com/v/colorado...
By BoulderCharles
Sep 23, 2012

Climbed Sept. 2012. It was pretty clean. The gear is great and easy to place and the climbing is fun. As usual, I just wish the hand crack was longer.