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Shiny Face 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Scott Sills, FFA: J. Haas, August, 2011
Page Views: 639
Submitted By: Jim Hausmann on Aug 16, 2010

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Description 

This route has a very fun start, lots of long pulls off small sidepulls with imaginary feet, and even a dyno to the crying eyes up high. Good luck.


Location 

Start at the leftmost side of the September Wall, sharing the first 30' with Mix-up. Stem the chimney, pull a small roof on jugs, then step right to the business.


Protection 

14 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.



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By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 23, 2011
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Super fun! I felt like it could be reachy if you're under 6 foot as there were a few moves that felt near my reach limit. The hands are good, but feet are definitely not.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Apr 30, 2014
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

I would agree with Jason on the reach issue. I am sub-6 foot tall, and a couple of the moves were just out of reach requiring some alternate sequences that didn't feel very 13a'ish (i.e. painful). I would probably focus on other routes at or near the grade at DH before this one, but it is a nice climb nonetheless.

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 30, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

FWIW, according to Scott, he never redpointed the route, although he did bolt it. I redpointed it in August of 2011, which Scott believed was the first "send" of the route. Even so, great job on Scott's part and real "route credit" goes to him.