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This route is just to the left of Take the Termites Bowling and is squeezed. Climb up good liebacks to a big move past the first bolt to a good right hand hold. Skip the drilled pocket for more interesting climbing past the second bolt, and continue up the overhanging arete. The climb using holds right next to the bolts on Take the Termites Bowling, but it does follow an independent line of moves. Skipping the pocket does not change the grade.
6 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor
Peter Beal making it all look so easy.
Peter again, its all in how you do it.
Peter finishing au-natural all the way.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jun 17, 2004
This route has not been modified. The route to the left has a comfortized jug midway up.
|By Mark Rolofson|
Feb 19, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
Here's the scoop on "Shiny Dog". After watching Chris Alber on this route in 1998, I have climbed it many times ever since. Yes the route is squeezed, but it may be my favorite climb on this wall because there is no where to stop & rest until your hands are in the horizontal crack above 5th bolt. You don't use the large, drilled jug pocket on the neighboring route "Super Bon Bon", because if you do, it definitely changes the grade. You can hang out from this jug switch hands and shake out. As for the start, I dyno up & right with the left hand to a jug, then a few reasonable moves lead up left to 2nd bolt. Some people climb the start to "Super Bon Bon" but avoid using the manufactured jug. From a tips lieback hold below a sloping shelf, clip 3rd bolt and then reach (dyno)to a big edge and continue up the blunt arete. At 4th bolt, stay on the arete. Your left foot goes on the big hold below the bolt, and then deadpoint to the horizontal crack. If you move right at the 4th bolt around the arete, it drops the grade slightly too. It's a great training route for power endurance.