Shinbuster 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Eli Helmuth |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Eli Helmuth on May 17, 2006 |
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Following the first lead of Shinbuster.
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route is a mostly thin crack starting 20' left of the route "Left Out" on the buttress just west and across the gully from "The Man who Loved Cat Dancing".
Location The start is a short, right-facing dihedral which begins at a small overlap at knee level- miss the first move and you may understand the route name. Step left at the end of the thin crack to the right-facing corner which leads to the fixed anchor for both this route and Left Out.
Protection Two bolts protect the opening sequence and the remainder of the pitch is protected by small cams and nuts.
By david goldstein Jun 17, 2007
| Looking at it from below, one forms the impression that the business will be the slabbing past the two bolts and the runout past the second to the crack. The full erroneousness of this impression is brought home the entire way up the crack which is continously challenging and a constant struggle for decent gear. Even though that for a new Lumpy Climb, this is quite clean, there is still enough lichen in the crack to obscure some of the placements. Nonetheless, a pretty good pitch for fans of the Lumpy slab crack genre. |
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