Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Isis Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arapilumps 
Bart's Way 
Dead Boy 
Dead Boy Direct 
Flaked Out 
Isis 
King Tut 
Living Dead 
Man Who Loved Cat Dancing, The 
Ramses 
Road Kill 
Shinbuster 
Sport Pages 

Shinbuster 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Eli Helmuth
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 511
Submitted By: Eli Helmuth on May 17, 2006
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Following the first lead of Shinbuster.

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is a mostly thin crack starting 20' left of the route "Left Out" on the buttress just west and across the gully from "The Man who Loved Cat Dancing".


Location 

The start is a short, right-facing dihedral which begins at a small overlap at knee level- miss the first move and you may understand the route name. Step left at the end of the thin crack to the right-facing corner which leads to the fixed anchor for both this route and Left Out.


Protection 

Two bolts protect the opening sequence and the remainder of the pitch is protected by small cams and nuts.



Comments on Shinbuster Add Comment
Show which comments
By david goldstein
Jun 17, 2007

Looking at it from below, one forms the impression that the business will be the slabbing past the two bolts and the runout past the second to the crack. The full erroneousness of this impression is brought home the entire way up the crack which is continously challenging and a constant struggle for decent gear. Even though that for a new Lumpy Climb, this is quite clean, there is still enough lichen in the crack to obscure some of the placements. Nonetheless, a pretty good pitch for fans of the Lumpy slab crack genre.