This route is just to the right of Shiny Face. It starts with 4 bolts, and as you head up, you will use a mix of cams for protection.
It is to the right of Shiny Face.
Four bolts at the start protect the beginning. We used a mix of cams from blue Alien all the way up to #4 Camalot. The 2 bolt anchor is on the left not on the right as per guidebook.
Halfway up above the bolts.
At the crux.
Brenda at the anchor of Shimminy Cricket.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Nov 1, 2012
I thought the bolted part of this climb was the most difficult, but if your crack climbing skills are lacking, you might feel the crux is above the bolts.
|By Rich F.|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 25, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
This is a fun route that needs to be climbed more to get rid of some of the lichen on the rock and dirt in the cracks. I thought there were two cruxes -- one down low at about the third bolt which is mostly just an awkward, off-balance move. The second is up high about 15 feet below the anchors where there's not much for the feet. I placed all sizes of cams from a 00 Metolius to a #4 Camalot, but mostly the cracks took between 0.75 and #2 cams. Fun route -- enjoy!
|By Jim Brink|
May 28, 2013
I loved this route! Face climbing, crack climbing, bulges, a roof, and a traverse with an amazing hidden hold. Anchors are around the roof/corner up left and out of sight. Excellent pro with nuts from 1/4" to 1" and a few cams.