The first bolt is about 20ft or so off the deck so bring a small cam, but it's easy ground up to the bolt. The crux is a pull over the bulge toward the end of the route.
QDs plus some small cams to a 2-bolt anchor.
Peter Dillon getting some pro in before the first ...
|By Anonymous Coward|
Feb 12, 2002
At the bulge slightly below the end of the route, where it gets steepest, there are good holds on the right. I've seen folks go left (as shown with the red line), and I have gone right myself. Any comments on this variation? Will Burrows
|By Jeremy Smith|
May 6, 2002
Climbed this on 5/4/02. The nut on the second hanger was unscrewed to the point of nearly falling off. I tightened it by hand, but that won't last long. As far as the bulge goes, we did it both ways, finding that going right was easier climbing but made clipping the bolt harder.
|By Michael Amato|
Oct 21, 2004
Easy to protect up to the first bolt with a small TCU and/or stopper. I found the roof on this route (climbed on the left side) much more fun and esthetic than that on neighboring Simmer.
|By Bruce Hildenbrand|
Oct 31, 2004
On 10/28/2004, Dale Haas and I removed the smash (lap) links at the anchor and replaced them with 3/8" quicklinks and Fixe SS rappel rings. Also, we tightened the nuts on all four of the bolts which protect this route.
This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Nov 15, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
I liked this route better than Simmer. The line was more direct, and the moves through the roof were more interesting.
|By justin hausmann|
Nov 17, 2013
Fun routes, though I thought this and the routes to the right were bolted strangely. Some bolts where close to protectable cracks while right after that, on blank unprotectable faces, there were not bolts. Shorter people also have to pull the harder moves, slightly run out before clipping. I should have saved a 0.1 perhaps before reaching the bolt over the crux.